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Left Side at Roadside Rock: A Classic Trad Pitch in St. Vrain Canyon

Lyons, Colorado United States
trad
crack climbing
5.8 crux
single pitch
Sandstone
bolted anchors
St. Vrain Canyon
Length: 150 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Left Side
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Left Side offers a clean, engaging trad climb on Roadside Rock’s sandstone walls in St. Vrain Canyon. This single 150-foot pitch features solid protection, moderate 5.8 cruxes, and a scenic canyon backdrop that welcomes climbers honing their crack climbing skills."

Left Side at Roadside Rock: A Classic Trad Pitch in St. Vrain Canyon

Left Side presents a straightforward yet engaging trad climb carved into the sandstone faces that line the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon. Starting at the base of Roadside Rock, this route follows a clean, obvious crack that snakes slightly right as it climbs steadily toward the center of the formation. The rock here is solid and welcoming, offering a mix of technical hand jams and smooth face moves that reward steady technique and composure. As you ascend the 150-foot pitch, you’ll navigate two distinct crux sequences rated at 5.8, demanding a bit of finesse but remaining well within the reach of climbers with solid intermediate skills.

The setting holds a rugged charm—pine trees crowd edges of the canyon while the river shimmers just downstream, daring climbers to focus amid the sound of rushing water. From the belay station, bolted anchors gleam in the sunlight and are visible from the nearby road, providing a reliable catch for your rappel or lowering. The safety and accessibility here make Left Side a solid choice for climbers seeking a classic, single-pitch trad experience amid Colorado’s renowned canyon walls.

Protection along the route is straightforward and well-supported by natural gear placements. A standard rack up to #2 Camalot, complemented by smaller stoppers and the first four sizes of Tricams, will secure the pitch effectively. The rock’s varied cracks and seams create plenty of solid opportunities for placements, so don’t hesitate to build a confident rack. This balance of dependable gear and moderate technical challenges makes Left Side ideal for those transitioning into longer trad climbs or looking to sharpen crack climbing techniques.

Access to Roadside Rock is simple, with the approach trail hugging the canyon’s edge, offering a short walk from the parking area to the base of the climb. The terrain is generally stable, with tree roots and loose soil demanding attentive footing but nothing overly taxing. Plan your climb for mid-morning or late afternoon to avoid the peak sun and enjoy cooler conditions, especially in summer months. This orientation also gifts climbers with alternating sun and shade, helping to regulate comfort during the ascent.

While the route is approachable, climbers should remain mindful of changing weather patterns common in the canyon, as afternoon thunderstorms can roll in quickly during spring and summer. Solid footwear, layered clothing, and sufficient water will ensure you stay prepared for any shift in conditions. With its blend of clear beta, reliable protection, and a scenic canyon setting, Left Side offers a rewarding experience that balances the thrill of trad climbing with practical, do-able challenges.

Whether you're stepping into St. Vrain Canyon for the first time or returning for a trusted line, Left Side delivers a focused, memorable pitch that sharpens your crack climbing skills and leaves you soaking in Colorado’s rugged outdoor character.

Climber Safety

Although the route is well-protected, be mindful of loose rock near the base during approach, and watch for sudden weather changes in the canyon that can rapidly increase risk. Use caution when managing rappels from the bolted anchors, ensuring all gear is properly secured.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length150 feet

Local Tips

Start early or late in the day to avoid mid-day sun and heat exposure.

Wear shoes with good crack climbing grip to confidently tackle jams.

Carry at least two 60m ropes for a smooth rappel from the bolted anchors.

Check weather forecasts carefully; afternoon storms are common in summer.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 grade here feels accurate with two distinct crux sections that test technique without overwhelming. The rest of the pitch is moderate, providing a comfortable yet engaging climb. Compared to other local crack routes in St. Vrain Canyon, Left Side stands out as a solid entry-level pitch with a clean line and dependable protection.

Gear Requirements

A standard rack including cams up to #2 Camalot, stoppers, and the first four sizes of Tricams is recommended. The crack system offers solid placement options throughout, while new bolted anchors at the top enable safe double-rope rappels.

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Tags

trad
crack climbing
5.8 crux
single pitch
Sandstone
bolted anchors
St. Vrain Canyon