HomeClimbingLeft-Handed Tool

Left-Handed Tool: A Solid Upper Crack Variation in Boulder Canyon

Boulder, Colorado United States
hand crack
trad gear
single pitch
long slings
Boulder Canyon
solid protection
left traverse
Length: 70 ft
Type: Trad, Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Left-Handed Tool
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Left-Handed Tool is a dependable 70-foot single pitch combining trad and sport climbing tucked into Boulder Canyon's Upper Tier. It offers climbers a solid crack variation with secure protection and manageable rope work, perfect for those seeking a practical yet engaging ascent just off the beaten path."

Left-Handed Tool: A Solid Upper Crack Variation in Boulder Canyon

Left-Handed Tool offers climbers a compelling alternative to the well-known Tool King route, situated high on the Upper Tier of The Bihedral in Boulder Canyon. This single-pitch climb, stretching roughly 70 feet, blends traditional and sport climbing elements, creating a route that tests both your gear skills and route-finding acumen. Upon leaving the initial groove of Tool King, you’ll move left onto a clean crack that snaps with confidence under your hands—solid, secure, and surprisingly flawless for the area.

The approach up Tool King or its adjacent crack and slab section brings you to a modest ledge just left of Tool King’s third bolt. From here, a short but technical traverse leads you toward a hand-sized crack protected by gold and blue Camalots. This placement zone demands attention—not just for stability but also to maintain rope management through longer slings, which help keep your line clean and reduce drag.

Climbing this crack, you gradually ascend on finger to hand-sized gear placements, solidifying your protection as you near the top. The final section eases onto a small ledge positioned slightly left of the main Tool King anchors. From this vantage, the route wraps back right toward fixed anchors—bolts and chains—where you can safely top out or retreat. Despite its modest rating of 5.8, Left-Handed Tool offers climbers a crisp experience marked by quality rock and a welcoming variety of gear placements.

The climb’s position on The Bihedral's Upper Tier means you’ll be surrounded by Boulder’s rugged geological features, framed against the wider canyon landscape. Wind carries crisp mountain air through the crack systems, while sunlight dapples the ledge, offering both warmth and shadow that shift through the day. Whether you’re a confident trad leader or a sport climber looking to expand trad skills, this route provides a straightforward, engaging pitch that encourages steady movement and calm focus.

Planning your ascent? Expect a secure but thoughtful climb requiring a mix of bolts and traditional running gear. The presence of a few longer slings becomes an asset when managing rope drag around the leftward traverse and crack. For safety, favor sturdy, tested gear and be attentive to placement before committing. Expect a manageable approach with minimal bushwhacking, as Boulder Canyon's trails are well-maintained and accessible—the perfect balance between wilderness ambiance and practical access.

In all, Left-Handed Tool stands out as a concise, solid piece of Colorado climbing history—offering steady challenge with dependable protection and all the real rock feel that makes Boulder a must-visit climbing destination.

Climber Safety

While protection is reliable, pay close attention to placing gear securely in the hand crack section. The traverse involves some exposure—long slings reduce rope drag, but keep the rope tension managed. Weather can change rapidly in Boulder Canyon, so be prepared for sudden shifts.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Sport
Pitches1
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Start on Tool King or the adjacent crack before traversing left to the hand crack for best access.

Bring several long slings to manage rope drag, especially on the initial traverse.

The route’s protection is solid but requires careful gear placement, so double-check all placements.

Approach trails are well-maintained; allow 10–15 minutes from the main trailhead to the base.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8, Left-Handed Tool feels fair with solid holds and straightforward moves. The hand crack offers consistent placements, making it approachable for intermediate climbers. The grade stays true to Boulder area standards, with no unexpected crux but requiring a thoughtful approach to gear and rope management.

Gear Requirements

The route requires a combination of three bolts and hand-sized trad gear, along with several longer slings to handle rope drag on the leftward traverse. A standard rack including gold and blue Camalots works well for the crack, with longer slings assisting protection alignment.

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Tags

hand crack
trad gear
single pitch
long slings
Boulder Canyon
solid protection
left traverse