"This accessible 60-foot trad route in Nord du Quebec delivers a pure crack climb with steady gear placements and a manageable 5.6 grade. Ideal for climbers refining crack skills, it rewards with scenic northern forest surroundings and straightforward protection."
Set against the rugged backdrop of the Nord du Quebec, L'école du mystère de l'oeil d'Horus offers a straightforward yet rewarding crack climb that challenges traditionals and top-rope enthusiasts alike. This single pitch, stretching roughly 60 feet, carves a route through a network of cracks that demand both focus and steady technique. Starting at the base, climbers engage the rock with hands and fingers threading into right-leaning fissures, moving upward toward a diagonal ledge that frames the route’s middle section. This ledge acts as a brief reprieve and crossing point before setting off along the crack running through a compact dihedral.
The climb’s character emerges from the hands-on aspect of crack climbing combined with the natural flow set by the rock’s structure. The twin ledges near the top ease the final moves, offering a measured approach to the anchor bolts established for a secure top-rope or traditional setup. The protection is straightforward — a standard rack suffices, and a pair of fixed bolts at the anchor ensures solid and quick anchor setup.
The surrounding landscape, located within the Abitibi-Temiscamingue region, enhances the climbing experience with raw northern forest air and expansive, crisp views characteristic of Quebec’s wilder zones. The approach to the climb is manageable, ensuring more energy reserved for the climb itself.
For climbers seeking a welcoming introduction to crack climbing without sacrificing engagement, this route balances approachable difficulty at 5.6 with enough technical interest to cultivate confidence in gear placements and crack technique. Whether you’re rigging top rope or pushing leads, the route offers a clear path forward with reliable protection and manageable exposure.
When planning your visit, consider cooler mornings for the clean, dry rock and the quiet solitude found away from busier climbing hubs. The route's east-facing wall catches morning sun while remaining shaded in the afternoon, making early starts ideal. Bring a standard trad rack focused on smaller cams ideal for crack widths ranging from fingers to hands.
Attention to footwear is key: a pair of snug-fitting climbing shoes with good edging alongside crack-specific techniques will help maintain contact and conserve energy. Hydration and carrying quick snacks for the approach are recommended, especially if layering your day with exploration of nearby climbs.
L'école du mystère de l'oeil d'Horus is more than a climb; it’s an encounter with the northern Quebec rock that nudges climbers toward improved crack skills amidst a quiet natural setting. The modest star rating and single pitch length belie the quality and straightforward fun it promises, setting a practical yet enjoyable standard for anyone venturing to the Nord du Quebec climbing scene.
Watch for loose rock near the ledges and test all gear placements carefully. The anchor bolts are fixed but always double-check for rust or wear. Approach in dry conditions to avoid slippery rock surfaces and plan descent safely.
Start early to catch morning sun on the east-facing wall and enjoy cooler rock conditions.
Wear shoes optimized for crack climbing to maintain secure feet placements on fissures.
Bring hydration and snacks for a modest approach and potential route-finding time.
Check fixed bolts at the anchors before trustingly relying on them for rappels or belays.
A standard single trad rack is sufficient, especially cams sized for medium to finger-width cracks. The anchor is secured by two fixed bolts for top-rope or lead belays.
Upload your photos of L'école du mystère de l'oeil d'Horus and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.