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Lean Two at Perpetual Motion Wall: A Classic Joshua Tree Crack Challenge

Twentynine Palms, California United States
finger crack
hand jams
single pitch
north-facing
moderate
desert climate
trad rack
approach walk
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Lean Two
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Lean Two presents a twin-crack trad climb on Joshua Tree’s Perpetual Motion Wall, combining approachable jams with a challenging right crack that beckons climbers ready to test their skills in a rugged desert setting."

Lean Two at Perpetual Motion Wall: A Classic Joshua Tree Crack Challenge

Lean Two offers a straightforward but satisfying climb that delivers Joshua Tree’s signature desert crack experience with an approachable edge. Located on the eastern flank of the Perpetual Motion Clump, this climb features twin cracks side by side—each bringing its own character. The left crack routes a moderate 5.8 hand and finger jams corridor, genial for those getting comfortable with edge jams and crack climbing rhythm. The right crack ups the engagement with a steeper, more sustained 5.10 climb that pushes technique and power for those looking to push grades while staying on solid rock.

Sweeping quartz monzonite walls frame the route, catching sunlight that casts sharp shadows into the cracks, hinting at the textures you’ll feel under your hands and feet. The desert air is dry and warm, adding an element of endurance management—this isn’t just physical but also mental, balancing your focus amid the harsh natural surroundings.

Accessing Lean Two means a brief walk east from the well-known Star Wars Rock, through sandy, open ground scattered with low desert scrub and cactus clusters. The approach is direct but demands attention to footing where the terrain loosens. Once at the base, the twin cracks invite inspection. Climbers often combine both cracks on a single pitch, rating the overall line closer to 5.9 due to the variability in difficulty between them.

Protection is straightforward with a standard traditional rack—cams and nuts fit well within the parallel cracks. Given the nature of Joshua Tree’s granitic features, placements tend to be solid but do require careful gear checks before committing. With just one pitch stretching roughly 60 feet, the climb is a compact challenge that suits half-day visits or a casual day of route sampling in this desert climbing haven.

Timing your climb for morning or late afternoon is wise to avoid the desert’s peak heat, as the wall faces north and east, offering a bit of refuge from midday sun. The climb’s exposed position and lack of tall trees means wind can be a factor, especially in spring or fall—pack layers accordingly.

Lean Two shines as a clean introduction to crack climbing in Joshua Tree, marrying technique development with scenic desert solitude. Whether you’re brushing up finger jams on the left crack or testing endurance up the right, this route offers a tangible connection to the rock that defines this place. After topping out, the descent is straightforward—scramble down the easy rubble slopes back toward your approach trail.

Prepare with plenty of water, steady footwear suited for rocky desert terrain, and a trusted trad rack tailored to crack protection sizes. Bring a hands-on attitude and readiness to read subtle holds, and Lean Two will reward you with both a satisfying climb and a slice of the high desert’s timeless spirit.

Climber Safety

The rock is generally sound but sandy sections at the base can reduce footing security. Desert warmth can lead to dehydration—carry ample water and take breaks in the shade when possible. Gear placements need careful inspection to avoid slippage on the patinaed granite.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Approach from Star Wars Rock, walking east across loose sandy terrain.

Plan your climb in cooler morning or late afternoon for optimal comfort.

Watch for wind in open sections—bring layered clothing.

Check all gear placements thoroughly to ensure stability on desert granite.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating on the left crack feels solid but accessible, offering beginners and intermediates a chance to hone crack climbing fundamentals. The adjacent right crack demands more technical skill at 5.10, making the combined line feel closer to a 5.9 overall. This gradation allows climbers to tailor their challenge and gain confidence stepping up into steeper, more sustained terrain.

Gear Requirements

Carry a full trad rack focusing on standard cams and nuts. Protection opportunities are consistent but require precise placement within the twin cracks—no fixed gear present.

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Tags

finger crack
hand jams
single pitch
north-facing
moderate
desert climate
trad rack
approach walk