Adventure Collective
HomeClimbingLe Portail (ou Cheez Whiz)

Le Portail (ou Cheez Whiz): A Classic Saguenay Trad Route

Saguenay, Canada
crack climbing
trad
multi-pitch
sharp edges
belay ledge
Quebec
Length: 120 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Le Portail (ou Cheez Whiz)
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Le Portail offers climbers a two-pitch, 5.9 trad route carved through clean corner cracks in Quebec’s Saguenay wilderness. Expect solid protection, a comfortable belay, and a sharp top-out requiring care with rope management."

Le Portail (ou Cheez Whiz): A Classic Saguenay Trad Route

Le Portail, also known as Cheez Whiz, offers a focused trad climbing experience in the rugged beauty of Le Paradis, within Quebec’s Saguenay-Lac-St-Jean region. This two-pitch, 120-foot line traces a clean, inviting corner that challenges climbers with its delicate balance of steady jamming and technical movement. As you approach the base, thick boreal forests whisper around you, giving way to smooth, weathered granite that feels alive under your hands. The route immediately draws you in, inviting a gaze upward where the corner carves a defined arrow skyward.

The first pitch builds rhythm with solid placements and roomy rests, setting a tone of confident progression. Enjoy a comfortable belay ledge that offers space to regroup and soak in the quiet wilderness before tackling the final stretch. The top pitch demands attention, especially as the approach to the summit introduces a sharp, exposed lip. This section rewards climbers who come prepared with rope protectors or who opt to hike down carefully to avoid rope damage.

Protection is straightforward but requires a standard trad rack—cams and nuts slot securely into the corner’s well-formed cracks and edges. This route asks you to think about your gear placements while moving efficiently, maintaining steady focus on gear and footwork.

Set in the heart of an expansive, wild area, Le Paradis offers sweeping views that stretch toward distant lakes and forest ridges, standing as a quiet counterpoint to more crowded crags. The rock’s north-easterly orientation means mornings can be cool, encouraging earlier starts during summer months. Seasonal timing is key; late spring through early fall delivers the best window for stable granite and comfortable temperatures.

For those seeking a solid 5.9 trad route that challenges technical skill without overwhelming commitment, Le Portail hits the mark. It’s a route that rewards attentive climbing and offers a meaningful connection to Quebec’s wilderness climbing culture, all with manageable approach logistics and clear descent options.

Planning this outing involves a moderate approach through forest trails crafted over time by local climbers. The descent is straightforward—downclimb or hike off via a nearby footpath, though climbers should be mindful of loose rocks near the top, especially in wet conditions.

Whether you are layering on cams for essential protection or breathing in the cool air at the belay, Le Portail invites you to test your trad skills in a setting that wiggles the senses awake but keeps your feet firmly on practical ground. Get ready for a climb that blends quiet wilderness energy with the excitement of a classic crack line.

Climber Safety

Beware the sharp ledge near the top of the route which can cut ropes if unprotected. Use rope protectors or consider walking off to mitigate rope wear. Additionally, watch for loose rock and wet surfaces on the summit approach, especially after rain or thaw.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length120 feet

Local Tips

Start early to enjoy cooler morning temps and softer rock surfaces.

Double-check your rope protectors before the last pitch’s top-out to avoid damage.

Approach via well-marked forest trails; wear sturdy hiking shoes for the descent.

Bring a rack sized for finger to hand-sized cams to cover placements effectively.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating here aligns neatly with its technical nature—a steady but approachable trad grade that feels fair. It isn’t sandbagged; the corner demands solid jam technique and careful footwork. Compared to other regional lines, it sits comfortably as a classic moderate multi-pitch challenge that is accessible for climbers sharpening their trad skills.

Gear Requirements

Standard trad rack works well here with cams and nuts fitting smoothly into the corners. Rope protectors are recommended near the top to guard against sharp edges on the final section.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Le Portail (ou Cheez Whiz) and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

crack climbing
trad
multi-pitch
sharp edges
belay ledge
Quebec