"Le Nocturne delivers 80 feet of hand jam climbing on solid granite at Loggerhead Buttress. It’s a technical, approachable warm-up route with reliable protection and a secure anchor, ideal for prepping before Yosemite’s harder climbs."
Le Nocturne offers a concise but rewarding trad climb that’s perfect for warming up before tackling Yosemite Valley’s demanding routes. Located on Loggerhead Buttress in the El Cap Picnic Area, this 80-foot climb focuses on hand jams that challenge your technique and gear placement skills in equal measure. The route’s cracks welcome all sizes of pro, calling for a standard rack with extra attention to 2-3 inch pieces. Though the jams can feel awkward at times, they hold firm, rewarding patience and precise movements.
The approach is straightforward, making it an inviting introduction to the rugged granite of Yosemite’s north valley side. As you ascend, the rock’s texture shifts between sharp edges and smooth faces, demanding both finger strength and steady footwork. The single pitch naturally guides climbers through a sequence of jams that stretch wrists and test gear judgment, blending physical effort with mental focus.
This climb’s placement near the El Cap Picnic Area means it’s accessible without a long hike, saving energy for the main event. The two-bolt anchor provides a secure finish, easing transitions for those pushing onward to longer adventures. Locals appreciate Le Nocturne for its blend of technical demands and approachable length, making it a valuable part of any Yosemite climbing day.
Hydrate well before the attempt, as the granite reflects heat during midday, and choose footwear that balances sensitivity with support for sustained jammed holds. Early morning or late afternoon ascents are ideal to avoid the sun’s harshest glare and enjoy cooler conditions. Whether you’re stepping onto Yosemite’s granite for the first time or dialing in your crack climbing skills, Le Nocturne offers a focused, practical challenge with enough character to keep you engaged.
In Yosemite’s collection of granite walls, Loggerhead Buttress stands out as a reliable hub for short, sharp climbs. This route’s hand jams give every climber an opportunity to train gear placements and jam technique, making it less about big commits and more about polished climbing. The rock’s excellent quality ensures a consistent friction that encourages confident moves, while the route’s position helps set the tone for a full day of climbing in iconic surroundings.
Be mindful of the jam sections which, while solid, can feel awkward; ensure placements are secure, especially in the mid-crack zones. The approach and descent are straightforward, but sun exposure can become intense mid-day. Bring sun protection and watch for loose rock near the base.
Start early to avoid heat; granite gets hot during midday.
Wear climbing shoes with good sensitivity for jam technique.
Hydrate well before and during your climb.
Check your gear placements thoroughly to manage awkward jam sections.
Bring a standard trad rack, focusing on extra 2-3 inch cams to comfortably protect the varied hand jams. Two-bolt anchor at top ensures secure belay or rappel setup.
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