"Le Manoir des Mouches Noires offers a crisp single-pitch sport climb featuring a commanding left-leaning crack between two slabs. Its approachable 5.5 rating and solid protection make it a rewarding stop in the Laurentians, perfect for climbers keen on polished hand jams and confident slab moves."
Le Manoir des Mouches Noires presents a distinctive single-pitch sport climb that threads a bold crack angling leftward between two broad slab faces. Located in the rugged Laurentians near Lac Gervais, this route stands out for its clear line and approachable difficulty. From the base, the crack invites climbers with a confident presence, its edges worn smooth but offering solid holds. The slabs flanking it rise steadily, their angled surfaces catching dappled sunlight and cool breezes that animate the granite’s subtle textures. The climb demands steady footwork on the slabs, paired with hand jams that give way to a gently shifting rhythm—neither rushed nor strenuous, but engaging enough to hold attention as you ascend the full 75-foot length.
Positioned in the b. Secteur multi-pitch area, this route fits well within the mix of classic sport climbs that pepper the Laurentian landscape. The approach is straightforward, with a short hike through mixed forest leading to an open ledge where the rock reveals its layered character. The protection is reliably excellent, allowing ascenders to place gear confidently whether opting for traditional nuts and cams or using fixed sport anchors. This versatility makes the climb a great pick for climbers looking to test gear styles or introduce themselves to crack techniques in a low-stress setting.
Seasonally, late spring through early fall offers the clearest window to enjoy dry rock and moderate temperatures. Early morning or late afternoon light enhances the granite’s contrast, illuminating textures and shadows that assist in reading holds. A light breeze often sweeps through, cooling exertion and adding a fresh note to the forested surroundings nearby. Although brief, the climb’s flow rewards attention to detail and balance. Ideal footwear with sticky rubber is key, alongside a hydration plan for the approach and descent. This route serves well as a primer or a relaxed afternoon ascent, providing both a touch of technical crack climbing and the satisfaction of linking a clean line through classic Laurentian granite.
While protection is excellent, the climb’s slabs can feel slippery if wet, so avoid attempts after rain. Approach and descent trails are short but uneven, watch footing with loose rock and uneven ground. Weather can shift quickly in the Laurentians—pack layers and be prepared for sudden changes.
Plan your climb in late spring to early fall for the driest, safest conditions.
Bring sticky-soled climbing shoes to steady your feet on the slabs.
Hydrate before the climb; approach trails are short but offer limited water sources.
Start early or late in the day to benefit from cooler temperatures and soft lighting.
Climbers will find excellent protection options here, whether they prefer to run sport draws on fixed anchors or place traditional gear within the crack's clean features. Nut and cam placements fit securely, ensuring confidence on the climb’s manageable but technical sections.
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