"Le Jardin Secret presents a concise but technical trad climb in Quebec’s Southern Area, guiding climbers through a leftward ramp to a commanding flake and a delicate finger crack. Its moderate 5.9 rating suits those looking to hone trad skills in a naturally protected setting surrounded by quiet northern forest."
Le Jardin Secret offers a focused trad climbing experience that tests technical finesse over a brief, vertical 50-foot pitch. Located within Quebec City's Southern Area, this route begins by following a distinct ramp just under the belay station, guiding climbers steadily leftward. The rock here demands careful attention, especially on the approach to a large, pronounced flake that serves as the gateway to the final push—a narrow, delicate crack that requires precise hand and finger placements to navigate. The climb’s moderate 5.9 rating suggests a challenge best suited for climbers comfortable with finger jams and crack climbing techniques but without the overwhelming exposure of longer routes.
Set against the quiet backdrop of Lac Long’s rugged terrain, the route’s natural pro placements mean adventurers must be confident in their gear skills—each piece demands a thoughtful eye to ensure secure protection. After topping out, the descent demands caution: a 40-meter rappel drops climbers to the base, highlighting the importance of double-checking ropes and anchor rigging.
The surrounding landscape enhances the climb’s appeal—quiet northern forests frame the granite outcrop, and the local air carries a cool, fresh scent that sharpens focus. Paddling or hiking near Lac Long before or after your ascent can complement the day’s adventure, grounding the climb in a deeper experience of Quebec’s outdoors. The approach trail is manageable though not heavily maintained, requiring sturdy footwear and an awareness of shifting weather patterns, especially during early spring melt or late autumn.
Whether you’re refreshing crack climbing skills or seeking a contained introduction to trad moves on Quebec granite, Le Jardin Secret provides a straightforward, engaging challenge. Adequate preparation with gear, hydration, and timing—aiming for clear, dry conditions—will ensure the route’s subtle demands remain approachable. The crunch of shoes on rocky terrain, the whisper of leaves stirred by the wind, and the quiet exertion of finger jams come together here in a climb both intimate and rewarding.
The 40-meter rappel requires careful setup; loose rocks near the belay can pose hazards when lowering. Rock quality is generally good but remain alert for occasional flakes that may shift under weight.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat; the route is shaded mid-morning through midday.
Check weather forecasts—wet granite reduces friction and places gear less securely.
Double-check rappel gear and anchor knots; the descent rappel is a full 40 meters.
Wear sturdy shoes for the approach trail; terrain is uneven but well-trodden.
Natural pro placements dominate this 50-foot route, with ample opportunities for small to medium cams and nuts. There are no fixed anchors; climbers must bring a full trad rack and be prepared to build or extend gear placements carefully.
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