"Le Bénitier challenges trad climbers with two pitches of technical mixed climbing in Quebec’s Saguenay-Lac-St-Jean. Expect a tough crux on pitch one and a sustained corner system that demands both gear savvy and steady movement."
Nestled in the rugged expanse of Le Paradis within Quebec’s Saguenay-Lac-St-Jean region, Le Bénitier delivers a raw trad climbing experience that tests both technique and nerve. This 120-foot route is carved into a compelling corner system, demanding precise protection skills and steady resolve. From the moment you clip the first bolt on pitch one, you face an immediate challenge: a crux move that pushes the limits of both body and gear management. The initial three bolts guide you into a steep, partially protected stretch where placements are sparse and your rack must be chosen with care. As you ascend, the rock coaxes engagement from your fingers and the natural seams invite careful exploration, culminating in a tricky corner finish that requires subtle balancing and controlled power.
Pitch two eases slightly to a 5.10+ rating but maintains its mixed protection style, continuing up the corner with solid but demanding placements. Here, the route’s character unfolds clearly: a blend of natural features and engineered bolts that reward patience and precision over brute strength alone. The mixed nature of protection—combining fixed bolts with traditional gear placements—means climbers need to be comfortable with a well-rounded rack and prepared for variable rock quality.
Approaching Le Bénitier is straightforward thanks to established access within Le Paradis, but careful attention is needed on the rock itself. The wall faces northeast, offering balanced sun exposure that makes spring and early fall ideal climbing seasons when temperatures are moderate and conditions stable. Climbing later in the day often brings shade, easing heat stress and increasing friction.
This route is a strong contender for trad climbers looking to sharpen their mixed climbing skills in a scenic northern wilderness. With only two pitches yet enough complexity to engage, it fits well into a half-day outing and complements the broader climbing opportunities in this region known for its quiet remoteness and captivating views of the surrounding forests and waterways.
Preparation is key here. Carry a full standard rack geared towards mixed protection as gear placements will be subtle and demand an experienced eye. Helmets are essential, as loose pieces can be dislodged during the ascent. Hydrate well before the climb and consider timing your push on pitch one early in the day when rock temperatures are cooler and your grip more secure.
Le Bénitier invites you to engage the rock directly, offering a route where mental focus and tactical gear use elevate the adventure beyond simple upward movement. Whether you are stepping up from sport climbing or honing advanced trad skills, this climb stands ready to deliver its gritty, engaging challenge amid Quebec’s wild landscape.
The route features some difficult-to-protect sections on pitch one requiring an experienced eye for gear placements. Loose rock is present in certain corners, so helmets and cautious route-finding are essential. Timing the ascent to avoid heat stress is recommended.
Bring a full set of cams and nuts for versatile protection on mixed terrain.
Start early to benefit from cooler rock temperatures on pitch one’s crux.
Wear a helmet to guard against potential rockfall from loose sections.
Approach trail is well-marked but bring GPS coordinates to avoid detours.
Le Bénitier requires a standard trad rack tuned for mixed protection, including cams and nuts sized for tight placements. Expect to use both bolt clips and natural gear throughout the climb.
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