"Layback at McCurdy Park Tower is a classic single-pitch trad climb featuring one of the cleanest cracks in Lost Creek Wilderness. Offering moderate challenges with solid crack jams and layback moves, it’s an inviting line for those seeking a straightforward yet technical granite experience."
Layback stands out as a straightforward yet engaging trad climb on McCurdy Park Tower, tucked deep within Colorado’s Lost Creek Wilderness. This single-pitch route, stretching about 150 feet, offers climbers a welcome break from more technical lines nearby, making it a perfect choice for those looking to hone crack climbing skills or enjoy a less crowded venture into the granite walls of South Platte. From the first jam or layback move, the route demands steady hand and footwork on what may be the cleanest crack along this face. The rock’s texture feels solid and the line distinctly visible from the trail—a beacon for motivated climbers willing to explore beyond the blockbuster crag.
Arriving at the base involves a bit of routefinding but rewards with a climb that balances challenge with accessibility. The initial jam section, roughly 30 feet, requires confidence placing gear in the crack system that invites both hand jams and technical layback moves. Though rated 5.7 in guidebooks, expect the difficulty to edge closer to 5.8; its subtle cruxes demand smooth technique, especially when working around the slightly vegetated corners higher up.
After the initial jamming section, the ascent veers right through a patch of roots and short cracks, which requires some thoughtful gear placements, including space for larger cams up to #4 Camalot. The crack widens and tight large cams must be shuttled into position before reaching a comfortable belay stance near a tree. The upper chimney crack climbs steeply and calls back to the vibe of Vedauwoo’s gritty, physical climbing—but with the peace of Lost Creek’s remote wilderness.
Once at the top, climbers can rappel a single 100-foot drop back to the base or downclimb with care. The surrounding forest exhales cool, pine-scented air, and the occasional call of distant birds punctuates the quiet. The approach trail crosses a gentle pass, then skirts around the crag’s backside to reveal this quieter face—a hidden invitation that few overlook once they glimpse the inviting crack.
Prepare for an outing that blends the raw beauty of Colorado’s granite with a manageable yet rewarding climbing experience. Pack medium to large camming devices, wear sturdy footwear with reliable edging, and bring enough water for the hike in the sometimes dry, sun-dappled valleys of the Lost Creek Wilderness. Plan your climb for spring through autumn to avoid icy conditions, while morning or late afternoon ascents offer pleasant shade on the south-facing wall. Whether you’re stepping up from beginner crack climbs or seeking a solid warm-up before steeper challenges, Layback offers a compelling taste of this rugged Colorado gem.
Be cautious navigating the vegetated cracks—roots and loose debris can reduce foothold stability. Double-check all gear placements, especially in the wider cracks where larger cams are required. The rappel anchor is a tree, so inspect its condition before descending. The approach trail has some uneven footing, so wear sturdy footwear and watch your step.
Approach via the backside of the crag, walking past the Splitter route and then circling right to find Layback’s clean crack.
Best climbed between late spring and early fall to avoid icy or damp conditions on the rock.
Morning and late afternoon climbs enjoy better shade, reducing heat exposure in summer months.
Ensure your rack includes larger cams, as a few wide crack sections demand bulky gear for safe protection.
Bring a selection of traditional gear including several medium to large cams, up to a #4 Camalot, for placements in the varied crack widths. The route’s protection is solid but requires thoughtful gear placement in some vegetated corners.
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