"Las Dalias offers a classic four-pitch trad experience nestled in the rugged Los Dinamos region. Featuring consistent 5.9 pitches through chimneys, cracks, and dihedrals, this climb balances moderate challenges with technical finesse, inviting climbers to engage with its varied terrain and natural beauty."
Las Dalias stands out as a well-rounded moderate trad climb that challenges you with varied terrain and solid crack climbing. Situated in the famed Los Dinamos area of Central Mexico, this four-pitch route offers a taste of traditional climbing with pitches consistently rated around 5.9, making it a worthwhile objective for climbers eager to sharpen their crack skills.
The climb begins at the base of a pillar where the first pitch invites you into a tight chimney. Here, your body feels the intimate squeeze of the rock, the limited space forcing technique and patience. This chimney demands both strength and finesse, as you slide upward through the confined space before reaching a belay stance that allows you to catch your breath or link directly into the next pitch with a long runner.
Pitch two shifts the focus to a short headwall crowned by a splitter hand crack. From the belay, a few deliberate steps left set you up for this crack climb that feels both accessible and satisfying. The hand crack offers dependable protection—ideal for placing cams—until you reach a solid ledge with secure anchors.
The third pitch takes you up a dihedral that mixes crack systems, requiring you to alternate between placements on rock faces and cracks for the best protection. This variation keeps you engaged as you ascend to the base of a large boulder. The final moves of this pitch involve some face climbing to the left, culminating in a comfortable belay station that feels earned after work up the dihedral and cracks.
If you continue to the fourth pitch, prepare for a more adventurous finish. The approach requires traversing left along a garden-like terrace until you reach a small cave marking the pitch start. This pitch features a hand crack in its upper portion but finishes on runout 5.8 face climbing. There are no fixed anchors here, so be prepared to place your own pro to top out safely.
The descent for pitches one through three is straightforward via rappel using 60-meter ropes and chain anchors. For the fourth pitch, it’s recommended to scramble left to the descent anchors of the nearby Xochipili route, as rappelling directly can be tricky without fixed gear.
Gear-wise, carry a standard trad rack to #4 Camalots, bringing doubles for all sizes except the largest #4. Nuts are essential, along with several long runners to manage rope drag, especially on the first pitch’s chimney and the traverse to the fourth pitch.
Los Dinamos offers a rugged, authentic backdrop for this climb, within a natural reserve known for its boulder fields, thick pines, and sweeping views of the Mexico City outskirts. The area’s remoteness keeps crowds light and the experience focused. Morning light hits the wall well, keeping you cool during early starts, while afternoons bring shade and a pleasant drop in temperature.
Las Dalias is a solid pick for climbers looking to experience Mexican trad climbing at a moderate challenge level, blending technical cracks and careful route-finding. The route rewards attention to detail, clean gear placements, and steady movement. When planning your trip, come early to avoid heat, bring hydrating fluids, and expect mixed rock textures that require calm footwork and trust in protection. This climb embodies hands-on trad ethics grounded in classic crack climbing within one of Mexico’s most rewarding climbing zones.
Mind the lack of fixed anchors on pitch four’s final face climbing section; setting solid pro and linking carefully is essential. The descent requires attention to avoid loose rock during the scramble to Xochipili anchors.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat on the exposed sections.
Carry at least 60 meters of rope for comfortable rappels on pitches 1-3.
Be prepared to build your own anchor at the top of pitch 4; no fixed gear is present.
Scramble left after pitch 4 to link into Xochipili’s descent path safely.
Bring a standard trad rack to #4 Camalots with doubles on all sizes except the largest. Include nuts and several long runners to navigate tight corners and reduce rope drag effectively.
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