"L'Arête des Étoiles is a concise, steady climb featuring controlled moves along a sharp arête. Its challenging top slab and solid protection make it a worthwhile test for sport climbers honing their technique in Quebec’s Laurentians."
In the heart of Quebec’s Laurentians, L'Arête des Étoiles offers a sharp and sustained climbing experience that demands both focus and finesse. This 55-foot route, perched on the Center Wall within the La Bleue area near Val-David, is a compelling addition to the sport climbing scene, demanding precise moves that hold firm until the final ledge. From the first bolt to the delicate exit on a slab, every meter tests your technique, making it an ideal challenge for climbers seeking a concentrated burst of sustained effort.
The route ascends an exposed arête that commands attention. The rock, with its clean and solid features, allows for confident placements, but don’t underestimate the timing and balance required on the upper slab where the angle eases but the hold quality shifts. Climbers report a steady rhythm of moves, with no room for relaxation until the top anchors, which reuse fixed bolts offering reliable anchors for both sport and top rope setups. The finish line itself is a nuanced exit, not just a casual stroll—this section previously formed a higher-rated 5.11b variation from a nearby route called 'Le Bouleau,' calling for controlled precision.
For those looking to push harder, just right of the main bolts lies 'Guerre des Étoiles,' a more demanding V3-4 bouldering challenge rated at 5.11. This adjacent option will test finger strength and body tension, contrasting the smooth flow of L'Arête des Étoiles.
Gear looks straightforward here: five well-spaced bolts protect the route, leading to a top anchor made of established ringed bolts. While the climb is bolted sport-style, the option for a top rope setup adds versatility, especially for climbers working the technical sequences. Expect solid rock with minimal loose debris, though the top slab requires attention when placing feet to avoid slipping.
Approach is direct, with a short walk from parking in Val-David. The trail is marked and maintained, threading through mixed woodland before opening onto the cliff face. The clear GPS coordinates (46.02782, -74.18938) ensure easy navigation. Midday climbs benefit from good sunlight on the arête, warming cold fingers in shoulder seasons, while early morning sees cool shade that’s welcome in summer’s heat.
Practically, pack rock shoes with sticky rubber for slab precision and a light rack focused on sport gear since fixed protection is in place. Hydration is key—the approach incorporates some light uphill through forest paths, so keep water handy to stay energized.
The Laurentians’ protected natural environment offers a quiet setting far from urban buzz, where pine and cedar whisper beside granite cliffs. Despite its relatively short length, L'Arête des Étoiles demands attentive climbing and rewards with a compact but complete experience of Quebec’s diverse rock.
Whether you’re refining your 5.10+ strengths or seeking a gym-to-crag test, this climb encourages measured concentration and tactical footwork, making it an invaluable route in the area’s repertoire.
The top slab demands cautious footwork as the rock surface smooths and holds lessen; slipping here can lead to a pendulum on the lower bolts. Check the fixed bolts before relying on them for descent or top rope setup.
Arrive early to catch morning shade during summer months.
Sticky rubber shoes enhance friction on the top slab finish.
Stay hydrated—approach involves a moderate uphill walk through forest trails.
Double-check the fixed anchors if top roping after wet weather.
Equipped with five bolts and a top anchor on ringed bolts, this route relies on sport protection with a straightforward rack. Top rope is fully supported by the fixed anchors.
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