"Land Of The Mossed offers a focused trad climb featuring a left-leaning hand crack and splitter fingers that lead into a crux bulge. Perfect for honing crack skills or warming up for harder routes in the Redwood Coast area."
Land Of The Mossed beckons with a blend of technical crack climbing and thoughtful movement, set within the rugged beauty of California’s Redwood Coast. This single-pitch trad route carves its challenge through a left-leaning hand crack that quickly demands attention, then shifts rightward into smooth splitter fingers inviting confident jams. The climb’s rhythm is punctuated by a section of cool stemming that challenges balance and core tension before arriving at a crux bulge guarded by a right-hand jug, offering a much-needed moment to breathe and ready for the final launches. Despite its modest length of 40 feet, this route packs a satisfying punch for climbers dialing in their technique or warming up for the more committing lines nearby, such as Zacher Cracker or Lost and Forgotten.
Set on the Three Amigos Wall within the Land Of The Lost area of the Redwood Coast, the route enjoys a secluded feel surrounded by the deep greens and gritty granite that define this corner of Northern California. The rock’s texture offers reliable friction, while patches of moss and lichen lend a tactile reminder of the moist coastal environment, urging vigilance with footing and hand placements alike. Protection is straightforward with placements up to 3 inches, making it an excellent school climb for gear placement practice as well as an accessible challenge for seasoned trad climbers.
Approaching Land Of The Mossed involves a brief trek into a quieter section of the Redwood Coast climbing scene. The trail is manageable but uneven, winding through forest floor strewn with pine needles and occasional slick roots—solid footwear with good grip is a must. The climb itself faces west, catching afternoon sunlight that softens the shadows in the crack but avoids the searing midday heat common to lower elevation climbs. Spring through early fall offers the best window for stable weather and dry rock, while winter can bring damp conditions, increasing the challenge but also heightening the sensory immersion of the forest’s whispers and distant creeks.
For those planning their ascent, packing a standard trad rack with emphasis on cams to 3 inches ensures adequate protection. The anchors are fixed for a confident rap descent back to the base, simplifying the exit and allowing repeat laps or a shuffle over to neighboring routes for an extended session. Given its approachable length and technical demands, Land Of The Mossed serves as both a testing ground and a gateway, a route that invites climbers to sharpen skills while savoring the raw ambiance of Redwood Coast’s granite walls.
Moss can make footholds slippery, especially in damp conditions—test your feet carefully before weighting them fully. The fixed rap anchors simplify descent but always double-check gear before rappelling.
Wear grippy footwear to navigate mossy and damp sections of the approach and climb.
Arrive in the afternoon for optimal sunlight illuminating the west-facing crack.
Keep gear placements tight in the stemming section for added security.
Avoid winter attempts when moss and moisture increase slipperiness.
Standard trad rack with cams up to 3 inches is essential. Fixed rap anchors ensure a straightforward descent.
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