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Ladies on Top Trad Climb at Moro Rock

Three Rivers, California United States
multi-pitch
crack climbing
slab
alpine rack
run-out sections
arrowed anchors
Length: 550 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
5
Location
Ladies on Top
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Ladies on Top is a five-pitch trad climb on Moro Rock’s East Face that challenges intermediate climbers with varied crack systems and slab traverses. It combines steady, technical climbing with the expansive views of Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Park."

Ladies on Top Trad Climb at Moro Rock

Rising sharply from the rugged Southeast face of Moro Rock within Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Park, Ladies on Top offers a grounded, thoughtful trad climbing experience for intermediate climbers ready to test their route-finding and crack skills. This route unfolds over five pitches, stretching approximately 550 feet of engaging granite that demands both steady technique and calm decision-making under the open sky. From the first pitch, you are greeted by a right-facing shallow corner crack, rated 5.8, where solid placements align with well-etched edges, inviting you to settle into the rhythm of the climb. The granite breathes beneath your fingers as you ascend, offering a tactile dance with the rock that’s both challenging and accessible.

Pitch two eases off slightly (5.7), leading you left on a ramp toward a splitter crack that feels like a natural rhythm change—an invitation to move fluidly and maintain focus as you scramble up to the belay. The flexibility to anchor either below or above the splitter provides tactical options in positioning your team for the traverse ahead.

Pitch three increases the mental game with a 5.8+ traverse to the right. The crack thins and transitions to slab, presenting opportunities to read the rock carefully and make precise, committed moves. The large ramp and ledge at the pitch’s end feel like a small reward—an open breather before the final ascents.

Throughout the climb, the granite surfaces vary from solid cracks to run-out slabs demanding attention to footwork and gear placement. Protection typically calls for a standard alpine rack loaded with double sets of thin to medium cams, complemented by nuts and slings. Larger cams become crucial for the third-pitch belay station, and while fixed gear is scarce, the climb’s moderate risk rating (5.8 R) reminds climbers to respect exposure and placement confidence.

This route’s setting above the forested floor of the park offers spectacular views coupled with fresh air that fills the lungs and sharpens the senses. The climb favors mornings or early afternoons to avoid the afternoon heat on exposed granite, especially in summer. Moro Rock’s East Face is exposed to the sun, but morning light highlights the textures of the stone, guiding your holds and feet.

The approach is straightforward yet requires attention; starting from a well-marked trailhead, expect a 10-15 minute hike over well-maintained paths with some granite steps and uneven terrain. GPS coordinates put you precisely at latitude 36.54357 and longitude -118.76373—perfect for plugging into navigation apps.

Downclimbing risk here is low; most parties opt for a rappel from the anchor stations or a controlled walk-off where terrain allows. Safety tips include double-checking gear placements on slab sections marked as run-out and carrying extra slings to extend protection around irregular blocks.

Ladies on Top perfectly blends the joy of alpine adventure with a manageable challenge, ideal for climbers seeking a rewarding multi-pitch trad route framed by one of California’s iconic parks. It’s a climb that asks for steady nerves and thoughtful movement in a timeless granite environment.

Climber Safety

The run-out slab sections call for cautious gear placements and focused movement. Loose rock is minimal, but belayers should remain vigilant when extending anchors, especially on pitch three. Keep an eye on heat and hydration due to direct sun exposure.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches5
Length550 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid climbing the sun-baked granite in the afternoon heat.

Place protection carefully on slab sections—the rock can be smooth and run-out.

Anchor options vary on pitch two; choose belay spots based on your team's comfort with the upcoming traverse.

Approach via the marked trail from Moro Rock parking; expect a 10-15 minute hike with uneven granite terrain.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8 R
Quality
Consensus:While rated 5.8 R, the route features a couple of run-out sections on slab that elevate mental demands. The climbing is generally straightforward but requires solid crack technique and the ability to confidently manage risk on exposed terrain. Compared to other SEKI granite routes, it feels firm yet accessible for those comfortable with moderate run-out ratings.

Gear Requirements

A standard alpine rack is essential, focusing on doubles of thin to medium cams for key placements along thin cracks and run-out slabs. Bring nuts and plenty of slings; larger cams are needed especially for the third pitch belay.

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Tags

multi-pitch
crack climbing
slab
alpine rack
run-out sections
arrowed anchors