La Secta del Insecto stands as a straightforward yet sharply technical trad climb that challenges your finger and hand jams before easing into a wider, more welcoming crack. Located in the rugged outcrops of El Escalon, just outside the vibrant culture and landscapes of Jalisco, this route offers a concise 90-foot ascent that demands precise gear placements and steady focus. The climb begins with narrow fingers and hands locking into the crack’s embrace, each move requiring careful balance and deliberate technique as you ascend the vertical face. As you push higher, the crack widens into a slot inviting larger pieces of protection—gear up to 3 inches fits comfortably here, giving climbers a chance to breathe a bit easier on the pro front. After navigating this widening passage, the route directs you to the right, skirting a resilient small tree rooted firmly against the rock face, before reaching the anchors and solid belay stance.

The granite around El Escalon carries the heat of the sun throughout much of the day, but the steep face offers pockets of shade, especially in early mornings and late afternoons, making these the best times to attempt the climb in warmer seasons. The approach to the base is approachable with a short hike from the trailhead, threading through dry scrub and scattered trees under a vast northern Mexican sky. The trail is straightforward but expect some loose scree near the base, so sturdy shoes with good grip are essential.

While the route might appear direct on paper, the crux lies in mastering the hand and finger locks at the outset, where precision counts. The tight crack forces you to engage core muscles and maintain patience with placement, a satisfying contrast to the somewhat roomy final section. Such moves create a well-rounded experience—engaging both technical skill and calm judgment under exposure.

Protection calls for a solid rack including cams sized from tiny fingers up to 3 inches. The crack’s progression means smaller pieces will quickly become redundant, so focusing your rack preparation on medium-sized cams ensures confident and safe placements. The anchors are fixed and reliable, but the presence of that independent tree demands attentiveness—don’t lean or rely on it as a natural part of your protection system.

This climb resides in a quiet corner of Jalisco’s climbing scene, offering a chance to escape crowds yet still enjoy a day under wide-open skies. Consider bringing ample water and sun protection, since shade on the route is limited and temperatures can spike unexpectedly. As the rock warms, friction improves, but climbers should plan to avoid the hottest hours to preserve grip and endurance.

In summary, La Secta del Insecto is a compact trad pitch blending technical finger jams and wider sections, set against the backdrop of northern Mexico’s dry hills. Ideal for climbers ready to sharpen their crack climbing skills without committing to a multi-pitch adventure, this route delivers clear beta and a rewarding day outdoors with practical demands and gratifying movement.