HomeClimbingLa Route des Champignons

La Route des Champignons: An Easy Trad Climb in Abitibi-Temiscamingue

Dalquier, Quebec Canada
easy trad
crack climb
tree anchor
short pitch
forest setting
beginner friendly
Length: 30 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
La Route des Champignons
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"La Route des Champignons offers an accessible trad climb through a gently inclined dihedral, perfect for newcomers to trad or those seeking a relaxed climb in the northern Quebec wilderness. Enjoy solid granite, a natural tree anchor, and a peaceful forest setting on this brief but satisfying route."

La Route des Champignons: An Easy Trad Climb in Abitibi-Temiscamingue

Just north of the rugged forests of Quebec’s Abitibi-Temiscamingue region lies La Route des Champignons, a straightforward trad climb that’s both approachable for beginners and a refreshing change of pace for seasoned climbers. The route guides you up a gently inclined dihedral, a broad crack framed by granite walls that invite you to test your footwork and hand jams without the pressure of steep overhangs or technical cruxes. From the base, the granite feels solid under fingertips, and as you move upward, the angle softens enough to encourage steady, methodical climbing, making it perfect for those tuning their crack technique or digging into the simple joy of exposed, unhurried movement.

The climb stretches roughly 30 feet, culminating in a peaceful belay spot anchored securely around a stately jack pine. This living anchor adds a natural rhythm to the ascent, rooting you in the environment as much as the rock does. The approach to the route is equally welcoming, with forest sounds weaving through the breeze and the ground giving way beneath steadfast boots. This uncluttered setting offers a chance to focus on the fundamentals—gear placement, trusting your pro, and maintaining calm control over each move.

Gear preparation is straightforward; a single rack outfitted with cams and nuts suits the crack’s dimensions well. The placements are intuitive, offering solid protection without requiring an extensive haul of gear. Given the tree anchor at the top, you’ll have a reliable and easy-to-access rappel point, streamlining your descent and minimizing transition stress. The climb’s moderate difficulty rating of 5.3 fits comfortably into the realm of early trad climbs, providing confidence-building moves without demanding advanced technique.

Seasonal timing matters: spring through early autumn delivers ideal temperatures and dry rock, while winter’s chill and snow are best avoided. The moderate sun exposure on this wall means early morning or late afternoon sessions are easiest on the skin and eyes, protecting from glare without robbing warmth.

Local tips include arriving with sturdy footwear that supports edging, packing water to stay hydrated given the forest’s low humidity, and double-checking your sling and knots before committing to the rappel. Though the climb’s straightforward nature means it’s perfect for those new to trad or groups teaching fundamentals, respect for the solid but occasionally weathered rock is essential to avoid unexpected slips or gear failures.

La Route des Champignons is a gentle invitation into Quebec’s climbing scene, a spot that speaks softly but clearly to those seeking to blend outdoor learning with a serene connection to the land. It proves that climbing doesn't need to scream for boldness to deliver satisfaction—sometimes, the quiet routes nestled in quiet places deliver the richest rewards.

Climber Safety

Though generally solid, the rock can show weathered patches—inspect placements carefully, especially near the dihedral’s top. The rappel relies on a single tree anchor, so verify sling integrity and position before descending. Approach with caution as forest floor can be uneven.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length30 feet

Local Tips

Wear supportive climbing shoes with good edging capability.

Carry sufficient water as the forest can feel dry on warm days.

Plan climbs for morning or late afternoon to avoid harsh sun.

Double-check your knots and sling before rappelling from the tree anchor.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.3
Quality
Consensus:Rated a comfortable 5.3, La Route des Champignons sits solidly in the easy trad category. The grade feels accurate with no surprising crux; the dihedral’s slight incline helps maintain flow. Compared to other local climbs, it leans softer and is ideal for those brushing up on basic trad movement or easing into trad climbing within a quiet forest environment.

Gear Requirements

A standard single rack with cams and nuts fits the crack perfectly. Protection placements are straightforward, and the rappel uses a sling around a mature jack pine at the dihedral's top.

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Tags

easy trad
crack climb
tree anchor
short pitch
forest setting
beginner friendly