"La Renfougne challenges climbers with a clean one-pitch trad climb framed by a commanding dihedral. Offering sound protection and a solid test of technique, this 65-foot route near Quebec City blends approachable climbing with a taste of wilderness."
La Renfougne offers a singular taste of trad climbing that feels both raw and approachable, perched on the rugged cliffs of Lac Long near Quebec City. This one-pitch route, stretching 65 feet, invites you to engage with the rock intimately. You begin with a careful ascent along a ladder of small ledges, each foothold testing your balance and attention. Ahead, a prominent dihedral rises, shaping the heart of the climb. Moving steadily upward, your fingers trace the inside corner as the dihedral challenges your footwork and rhythm. A brief, engaging chimney move signals the final effort, demanding a moment of focused power before the route eases near the top. The cliff faces south, capturing morning light that warms the rock but still provides refreshing shade by early afternoon.
The granite here has a sturdy, natural texture—granular under your palms but generally reliable for protection. Because this climb is protected entirely by traditional gear, be ready to place nuts and cams with precision; the route offers placements that are sound but not excessively abundant, rewarding thoughtful gear selection. The surroundings feel wild yet accessible, with the dense green canopy below and sweeping lake views unfolding as you look back from the summit. The approach is straightforward, following well-trodden trails through mixed forest, reaching the base in about 20 minutes from the parking zone.
Climbing La Renfougne is a practical introduction to Quebec’s trad lines. It's neither overly long nor technically complex, but it demands respect for solid footwork, confidence in gear placements, and patience to savor every move. For those preparing, sturdy climbing shoes with reliable edging capabilities are essential to navigate the ledges smoothly. Make sure to carry a rack focused on smaller to medium-sized cams and nuts, as protection opportunities lean into the compact features of the dihedral. Water and hydration gear should be well-stocked since shade becomes scarce later in the afternoon, and summer temperatures can be warm.
The route’s character offers a focused challenge that sits comfortably between beginner and intermediate grades. It’s ideal for climbers looking to sharpen their trad skills in a captivating environment without the pressure of long approaches or complex navigation. La Renfougne stands as a clear invitation to embrace trad climbing’s straightforward thrills amid Quebec’s northern landscape, where nature dares you forward with steady streams and rugged rock framing every move. Planning your day with midday rest at the lake shore or a picnic nearby can make for a balanced outdoor adventure combining effort, scenery, and relaxation.
Be attentive when placing gear in the dihedral, as placements can be less frequent near the chimney move and the rock surfaces slightly polished from prior traffic. Also, watch footing on the initial ledges to avoid slips, particularly if damp from morning dew.
Approach trail is clear but rocky; sturdy boots will save energy and prevent slips.
Start climbs early to enjoy cooler temperatures and avoid afternoon sun exposure.
Bring a light rack—overpacking can slow your flow on the short but technical pitch.
Hydrate well before the climb; limited shade during midday demands attention to water.
A well-rounded trad rack focusing on small to medium cams and nuts is essential. The dihedral offers solid but spaced placements, so careful pro placement is key for a secure ascent.
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