"Experience a demanding crack that evolves from finger jams to wide offwidth battle on this single-pitch trad climb in Central Mexico. La Muerte de Un Cadaver tests your gear skills and technique in a quiet area ripe for focused adventure."
La Muerte de Un Cadaver is a striking single-pitch trad climb that challenges you with an evolving crack system in the rugged landscapes of Central Mexico. Located in the remote El Libro sector of Aculco, this 90-foot route demands both mental and physical adaptability, as the crack starts narrow and technical, then broadens into an imposing offwidth puzzle that tests your full arsenal of crack climbing techniques. The climb begins with a deceptively easy, unprotected section low on the wall—this is best approached by placing your first piece on rappel to ensure safety—before transitioning into sustained cracks that shift from hands to fists, then into armbars and chicken wings. Each movement feels like a negotiation with the rock, the widening channel urging you to expand your grip and find leverage in awkward positions. The route’s grade of 5.10c indicates a serious challenge, where power and finesse combine but don’t overshadow the need for solid gear placement and composure.
The rock here is rugged and varied, often slightly dusty in the lower sections but generally solid. Protection ranges from medium-sized cams (#2) up to large #5’s, reflecting the increasing width of the crack as you ascend. It's essential to carry a full rack of cams to maintain good protection, especially as the wider offwidth sections can leave little room for smaller gear.
Approaching La Muerte de Un Cadaver invites a journey through the wild, dry hills surrounding Aculco. The area offers quiet solitude away from more crowded Mexican climbing hubs. The trail is rough but manageable, with sparse vegetation brushing the edges and thickening toward the base, where the rock face emerges sharply against the bright sky. Early morning climbs are advisable to avoid the midday sun that can bake the exposed wall, while late afternoon offers cooling shade and crisp air.
This route is perfect for climbers looking to build confidence on offwidth cracks and mixed crack systems. It's technical without veering into pure power moves only, inviting climbers to focus on technique, gear management, and endurance. The rock’s personality here rewards patience, and it will push you to read every hand jam and foot smear carefully.
Prepare for your ascent with sturdy crack gloves, a comprehensive set of cams up to #5, and plenty of water—the dry climate can quickly dehydrate even the most conditioned climbers. Remember that the initial section lacks easy pro placements, so maintaining safety with careful rappelling is crucial. The climb is a rare find in the Central Mexico region, blending character, challenge, and compelling terrain that will linger in your climbing memory long after you lower off.
Watch the initial moves carefully; the start is unprotectable and requires placing your first piece on rappel. The wide offwidth section demands large cams and deliberate foot placements—poor protection or rushed moves can increase risk. Also, the rock can be dusty near the base, so cleaning before climbing improves grip.
Carry a full cam rack including large sizes up to #5 for the wide offwidth sections.
Use crack gloves to protect your hands during sustained jams and offwidth moves.
Start climbs early to avoid the intense midday sun on this east-facing wall.
Place your first piece on rappel to ensure safety before moving up the unprotected initial moves.
Expect to place protections starting from a #2 cam up to a #5 as the crack widens. Place your first cam on rappel since the initial section offers little natural protection but is easy climbing.
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