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La Marlon Brando: A Classic Trad Climb in Los Dinamos

Mexico City, Mexico
splitter crack
chimney
single pitch
moderate protection
morning sun
Los Dinamos
Length: 110 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
La Marlon Brando
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"La Marlon Brando offers a straightforward trad experience on a crisp splitter crack in Los Dinamos near Mexico City. This one-pitch climb challenges hands and chimneys with reliable protection and a manageable length that welcomes climbers refining crack skills."

La Marlon Brando: A Classic Trad Climb in Los Dinamos

La Marlon Brando cuts a striking line through the rugged face in Cuarto Dinamo, inviting climbers into a straightforward yet satisfying 110-foot trad climb. This route sits just right of Las Hormigas, distinguished by a clean splitter crack that offers hands and some tight hand jams, perfectly calibrated for those who enjoy steady crack climbing without overbearing complexity. As you ascend, the rock’s texture shifts to a hand-and-chimney sequence near the top, a subtle change that demands both technique and composure to reach the ledge. This ledge is an important milestone, marked by rap bolts, where climbers can find a welcome pause before descent.

The approach carries you into Los Dinamos, a climbing area perched on the outskirts of Mexico City, drawing an energetic crowd from urban centers eager to escape concrete for stone. The climb’s north-central Mexico setting offers an ambiance of mild elevation with rugged volcanic stone etched by time, and the air carries the faint scent of pines that frame the trail in the lower tiers. This route is an accessible yet rewarding challenge for a range of climbers looking to sharpen their crack technique and experience solid protection placement.

Protection on La Marlon Brando leans on a double cam rack; the crack sizes fluctuate but generally accommodate a diverse set of cams, making gear choice essential for maintaining safety and rhythm. The protection quality is straightforward with solid placements, encouraging confident climbing in this moderately rated 5.9- line — some local feedback even suggests the grade leans slightly softer, hovering between 5.8 and 5.9 difficulty.

The wall’s orientation means morning light warms its face, making early starts ideal before the midday sun intensifies. A moderate approach trail winds through uneven footing, forest undergrowth, and volcanic rubble, requiring durable footwear and steady navigation, with GPS coordinates 19.26962, -99.29381 precisely marking this gateway to adventure. Upon topping out, climbers rappel from fixed bolts—a safe, efficient exit—allowing time to reflect on the climb’s straightforward charm and the surrounding steep forested ridges.

Whether you’re seeking to build trad confidence or savor a classic Mexican crack climb, La Marlon Brando delivers a focused experience free from distractions. It’s an invitation to read the rock with your hands and feet, test gear placements in a controlled line, and return sharpened both physically and mentally. Remember to time your climb to avoid afternoon heat and bring hydration for the exposed trail. The demands are practical, the rewards tangible, and the setting a rough-edged reminder of the climbing possibilities nestled close to a bustling metropolis.

This climb’s blend of technical crack climbing, manageable length, and consistent protection makes it a prime stop for trad climbers tuning up their crack skills or travelers eager to grasp the foothold of Mexico’s trad climbing scene. You’ll leave with a clear sense of progress beneath your fingers and a story rooted in stone and effort.

Climber Safety

Although the protection is generally solid, climbers should place gear carefully through the variable crack widths and chimney to prevent potential runouts. The rappel bolts on the upper ledge are reliable but check for wear before descent.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length110 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid strong midday sun on the face.

Bring a full set of cams to handle the crack’s size variations.

Stay hydrated as the approach trail is uneven and moderately exposed.

Plan for a single rappel using fixed bolts from the ledge at the top.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:Rated around 5.9-, this route feels approachable for most experienced trad climbers, with many considering the grade soft 5.9 or solid 5.8. The crux lies in the chimney section near the top, adding a technical move that bumps effort slightly but keeps the overall climb user-friendly compared to tougher routes in the area.

Gear Requirements

A double cam rack is essential for this route; gear placements are straightforward but require a full range of cams to protect varied crack widths, especially near the chimney section.

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Tags

splitter crack
chimney
single pitch
moderate protection
morning sun
Los Dinamos