"La Ira de Dios charges the shaded cliff wall of Caliche with a compact, steep 5.10d pitch that tests precision and power. A small but intense sport climb, it challenges with a reachy crux tucked near the top and sharp, clean rock that rewards attention and control."
La Ira de Dios stakes its claim on the cooler, shaded side of Caliche's cliff face in Ciales, Puerto Rico, delivering a short but intense burst of sport climbing that demands precision and power. This single-pitch route offers a compact encounter with steep, solid rock, characterized by clean holds and a fetching line that challenges even steady 5.10d climbers. As you approach, the dense canopy filters sunlight into a gentle pattern of sun and shade, tempering the tropical heat and allowing you to focus on technique rather than sweat. The rock feels consistent beneath your hands—firm and textured, offering confident friction that invites controlled movements.
The climb’s grading masks its discreet difficulty, reserving its crux for the final moves, where a reachy, slightly deceptive sequence tests agility and forearm stamina. Each hold must be carefully scanned, the best ones seized with intent, as hesitation here eats precious energy. The route's steeper profile compacts the effort into a demanding margin, where calculated foot placements and deliberate body positioning are key to unlocking success.
Protection is straightforward yet exceptional in durability, with five titanium bolts anchoring your ascent and finishing at a solid two U-bolt anchor. These modern fixtures provide a sense of security, but conserving the longevity of the titanium setup is crucial; top-roping directly on the bolts is discouraged—employ draws or rappel if you want to keep this line pristine for future climbers. Though short, the sustained nature of La Ira de Dios calls for full focus and efficient movement.
Approaching this route involves a modest trek through well-trodden forest paths that guide you to the base. The proximity to the town of Ciales ensures accessibility, yet the natural setting feels lightly brushed by civilization. Packing lightweight climbing shoes with sticky rubber and a moderate selection of quickdraws will see you comfortably through your climb. Hydration is essential, especially in this subtropical climate, so plan accordingly.
Overall, La Ira de Dios is a compact showcase of what Puerto Rico’s sport climbing scene can offer: a blend of reliable rock quality, a cool, shaded environment, and a route that challenges your technical approach toward the grade’s upper edge. Whether you’re tuning your 5.10d game or craving a sharp, intense route to sharpen your endurance and technique, this climb stands ready to test your limits with calculated, steely grace.
Be mindful of the titanium bolt anchors—avoid top-roping directly on them to prevent metal fatigue. The steep angle and reachy moves near the top could cause falls to be dynamic; ensure proper belay technique and full attention during clipping transitions.
Avoid top-roping directly on titanium bolts to extend their lifespan.
Bring sticky rubber shoes to maximize grip on the smooth, steep holds.
Hydrate adequately before and after the climb as subtropical heat can sap energy.
Approach through shaded forest trails to the cliff base, allowing 15 minutes from the parking area.
Five titanium bolts protect the climb, ending at a secure two U-bolt anchor. Use quickdraws for clipping to avoid excessive wear on the titanium hardware. Rappelling from the anchor after the climb is recommended to preserve bolt longevity.
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