"La Hercules is a fierce, single-pitch trad climb in Central Mexico offering a challenging finger-to-hand crack on a steep dihedral. Perfect for trad climbers seeking concentrated, technical climbing in a wild, scenic setting."
La Hercules offers a brief yet intense climbing experience high on the rocky faces of El Segundo Piso, within the rugged Cuarto Dinamo sector. This single-pitch trad route invites climbers to engage with a striking dihedral that demands sharp finger jams and powerful hand locks. Starting from the summit of the nearby Coco Towers, you step carefully across a chimney to reach a narrow ledge, setting the stage for the crack system that splits the dihedral’s right face. The initial moves test your precision as you navigate the bottom section’s technical crux, where finger strength and control are crucial.
Though compact at 60 feet, La Hercules commands respect with its steep, sustained climbing and varied crack widths. The rock’s textured surface offers reliable friction, amplifying the tactile connection to each hold and seam. Above the crux, the climb shifts rhythmically through fingers to full hand jams, rewarding endurance and steady technique. Because there are no fixed anchors at the top, after belaying your partner up, plan to continue left on a short traverse to link in with the second pitch of Nuevas Dimensiones. This extension leads to well-established anchors, providing a secure rappel point.
The climb’s remote location in Los Dinamos adds an adventurous edge. Approaching El Segundo Piso involves a moderately challenging hike through steep, rocky trails dotted with pine and scrub, where the scent of earth and distant river sounds guide you toward the base. Morning light filters softly through the trees, illuminating the rock and offering cool conditions essential for finger-crack climbing. Standard rack gear, including protection up to a #3 Camalot, is recommended to confidently safeguard the variable crack widths.
La Hercules demands respect but rewards with a straightforward commitment to technique and mental focus. Its isolated setting and direct climbing style make it ideal for climbers looking to sharpen crack skills on robust stone, away from crowded crags. Prepare with solid trad gear knowledge and reserve time for the linked rappel descent. This climb is a compelling slice of Central Mexico’s diverse vertical landscape, balancing a sharp physical challenge with the raw beauty of the region’s volcanic ridges and forested slopes.
Absence of fixed anchors at the top means climbers must be prepared to link into an adjacent route for descent. The exposure on the ledge crossing requires careful footwork and attention to rope management during the traverse — remain vigilant to avoid rope drag or slips.
Start early to enjoy cooler temperatures and avoid the midday sun on the face.
After topping out, prepare for a short 10-foot traverse left to access rappel anchors on Nuevas Dimensiones.
Wear shoes with good edging capability to steady your feet on the slabby ledge approach.
Hydrate well; the approach involves steep trails with limited shade.
Bring a standard trad rack including cams up to #3 Camalot to protect the full range of crack sizes encountered on the route.
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