"La Gaffe offers a compact, bold trad challenge just left of La Centrale in Quebec’s Laurentians. With its carefully spaced protection and technical small cracks, this short pitch demands steady nerves and precise gear placement."
La Gaffe stands as a brisk but demanding trad climb carved directly into the familiar face of A. Mur de l'Ouest in the Laurentians. This 20-foot pitch slices a clear line just to the left of La Centrale, presenting climbers with a blend of technical placements and bold spacing that challenges both confidence and skill. The initial two bolts offer a measured welcome, but beyond them a 40-foot runout dares climbers to trust their small gear and mental focus. Small cracks near the summit beckon for precise protection placements, turning this short climb into a nuanced test of trad savvy. Dry rock and moderate overhangs create a tactile experience as you move steadily upward, the wall’s texture guiding each hand and foot with gritty assurance. Accessible to those comfortable with the 5.10c grade, La Gaffe doesn’t overextend physically but demands heightened awareness and preparation for its runout sections. While this route is brief, it offers a compact lesson in balancing risk and technique, making it a valuable stop for climbers looking to sharpen their trad instincts amidst the cool, forested landscapes of Quebec’s Laurentians. Plan to arrive with a rack focusing on small cams, prepare for a straightforward but mentally engaging approach at moderate elevation, and set aside time to savor the quiet intensity of this route. The climb’s environment—marked by the crisp northern air and subtle whisper of the nearby forest—supports an experience that feels both connected to nature and intensely personal. For those targeting bolted lines with a trad twist, La Gaffe delivers a concise, well-protected challenge with just enough runout thrill to test composure without compromising safety. Whether you're building confidence or adding a demanding pitch to your logbook, this climb offers a raw slice of Quebec's climbing character behind its approachable exterior.
Beware the 40-foot runout after the first two bolts—fall potential increases substantially here. Ensure your small gear placements are secure, and test rock quality near the small cracks atop. Avoid climbing when surface moisture is present to reduce slipping risk.
Bring an assortment of small cams up to #0.5 Camalot for adequate protection.
Warm up on nearby bolted routes before attempting the runout sections.
Check rock conditions and loose flakes near the top cracks before climbing.
Start early to avoid afternoon shadows and dampness on the rock.
Small cams and precise gear placements are essential. The bolt line starts secure but transitions into a 40-foot runout where only small gear provides protection.
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