HomeClimbingLa fessée

La fessée: A Precision-Driven Sport Climb in the Laurentians

Baldy, Canada
sport climbing
small holds
technical
single pitch
bolt protected
Laurentians
Quebec
Length: 35 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
La fessée
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"La fessée delivers a compact but technical 35-foot sport climb in Quebec’s Laurentians, inviting climbers to master delicate holds en route to a rewarding ramp feature. A precise, steady send awaits those ready to test finger strength and control."

La fessée: A Precision-Driven Sport Climb in the Laurentians

La fessée offers an engaging 35-foot sport climb perched on the steep face of A. Dévers des anges, a climbing area within the rugged Laurentians of Quebec. This route invites climbers to start with a few deceptively simple moves that serve as a warm-up, drawing you into the climb’s tight, focused rhythm. From the very first holds, your goal is to reach a distinctive ramp—a narrow feature that demands finesse and attention. The challenge lies in managing one or two exceptionally small holds just before the ramp, where precision and balance must converge.

Once aboard the ramp, the climb shifts into a more flowing groove, rewarding steady technique and confident footwork with a satisfying stretch of climbing that feels gratifying rather than punishing. For climbers seeking an on-sight send, patience and exploration of the route’s subtle holds will reveal the sweet spots that unlock fluid movement. The 5.12a rating reflects a route that tests finger strength and body positioning without overwhelming complexity, making it an excellent step into harder sport climbing in this part of the Laurentians.

Protection on La fessée is straightforward: four well-placed bolts lead you safely upward to a secure two-chain anchor equipped with one locking and one non-locking carabiner. The quality of fixed gear supports confident clipping, allowing you to focus fully on your technique and the nuances of each move. The rock here is solid, providing reliable holds and reassuring contact points underfoot.

Located near the town of Baldy, La fessée sits at approximately 45.977 latitude and -74.134 longitude, a spot that blends the quiet wilderness of Quebec's northern forests with the exhilaration of sport climbing. The cliff’s orientation offers a mix of sun and shade, making it favorable for climbing during spring through early fall when the weather is stable and the rock is dry. Approaching the wall is manageable with a short trek from the nearest parking area, ensuring you can invest energy in the climb, not the approach.

Overall, La fessée captures the essence of a climb that demands clean technique and mental focus—a route where every grip is earned and the reward is a smooth, measured ascent. Whether you’re sharpening skills on small holds or chasing the thrill of a steady 5.12a challenge, this climb is a memorable addition to the Laurentian sport climbing scene.

Climber Safety

Though the bolts are well placed, be mindful of the small edges around the crux area; slipping here means a short fall onto the fixed protection. The rock is solid but always double-check your gear and anchor before committing to the moves.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length35 feet

Local Tips

Focus on foot precision to maximize efficiency on small holds before the ramp.

Plan your clip sequences early to maintain flow on the single pitch.

Early morning or late afternoon climbs offer comfortable temperatures with balanced sun exposure.

Bring climbing shoes with a stiff sole to handle the tricky edges on the approach moves.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.12a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.12a grade on La fessée is thoughtfully calibrated. While generally steady, the route features a brief bump in difficulty where tiny holds demand precise finger strength and balance, making the crux feel just stiff enough to separate seasoned climbers from those stepping up. Compared to other local climbs, it strikes a fair balance, leaning slightly toward technical finesse over pure power.

Gear Requirements

This route is protected by four bolts leading to a two-chain anchor, equipped with one locking and one non-locking quickdraw biner, ensuring straightforward clipping and solid security throughout the climb.

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Tags

sport climbing
small holds
technical
single pitch
bolt protected
Laurentians
Quebec