"La Félix-Antoine offers climbers a steady trek up a vast alpine friction slab on Mount Félix-Antoine-Savard. A route for adventurers drawn to solitude and wild views, it balances delicate footwork with sparse protection in one of Quebec’s most scenic mountain settings."
La Félix-Antoine is a compelling climb carved into the vast friction slab of Mount Félix-Antoine-Savard, set within the rugged backdrop of Hautes-Gorges-de-la-Rivière-Malbaie. This alpine route offers a raw and immersive wilderness experience, where the rock demands respect and the landscape rewards with sweeping views over Quebec’s remote Charlevoix region. Unlike routes packed with technical difficulty, La Félix-Antoine invites adventurers who prefer steady movement across large, smooth granite surfaces punctuated by rare but vital protection points. The slab climbs mostly in 4th and low 5th class friction, reminiscent of classic Adirondack mountain climbs like Mt Colden's Trap Dike, relying heavily on balance, footwork, and control rather than brute strength.
Visible from the well-known Acropole des Draveurs trail across the valley, this route stretches about 1300 feet over 8 pitches, a scale that asks for endurance and solid alpine skills. The ascent is best tackled simul-climbing, allowing climbers to maintain momentum along long passages with limited gear placements approximately every 15 to 20 meters. This sparse protection requires confidence in your alpine rack and comfort with runouts, making it unsuitable for climbers focused solely on technical difficulty. Instead, La Félix-Antoine rewards those with a taste for solitude and a willingness to engage directly with the mountain’s nature.
At the end of the climb, a short off-trail hike leads to the summit of Mount Félix-Antoine-Savard—a seldom-visited, wild peak offering a striking panorama of the Charlevoix mountain range. The absence of a trail emphasizes the remoteness and untouched quality of this destination, adding another layer of adventure to the experience. The alpine rock itself is compact with friction that demands careful foot placements, and a slow, deliberate pace will often serve climbers better than rushing through the pitches.
Gear requirements focus on an alpine rack suitable for wide protection spacing. The descent is straightforward but needs attention: rappelling is done by using trees located on the climber’s right side, requiring a careful approach to avoid tangled ropes or damage to vegetation. Approach involves traversing wild forest terrain leading to the base of the slab, demanding sturdy boots and layered clothing to manage changing weather and unstable footing.
La Félix-Antoine is ideal for climbers who appreciate the blend of rugged wilderness, physical challenge, and the reward of panoramic views without the need for relentless technical climbing. It encourages a mindset of respect for the mountain’s pace and the patience to move smoothly along friction slabs in alpine silence. This is not just a climb—it is a measured journey where the rock dares you to find your rhythm against the backdrop of Quebec’s wild highlands.
Protections are few and far between, with placements spaced every 15 to 20 meters. Climbers should be confident with runouts and simul-climbing techniques. The descent involves rappelling using trees on the right side, so ensure solid anchors and avoid rope damage; alpine weather conditions can change quickly, increasing risks on exposed slabs.
Climb early in the day for stable rock temperatures and avoid afternoon moisture.
Wear shoes with sticky rubber optimized for friction slabs to maximize grip.
Plan for a steady pace and use simul-climbing to maintain flow over long pitches.
Bring layered clothing; weather can shift quickly in the alpine environment.
Expect to use a standard alpine rack with gear placements spaced roughly every 15 to 20 meters on compact friction slabs. Protection is sparse, favoring climbers comfortable with runouts and simul-climbing techniques. Rappel lines are available on trees located to the right of the route for descent.
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