"La Farête is a thrilling 90-foot sport climb linking L'Arête and La Face, featuring precise technical moves past a tight roof and an exposed upper section. This route delivers both challenge and flow for climbers stepping into Quebec's climbing scene."
La Farête invites climbers into a crisp, challenging sport route that melds technical moves with a striking vertical landscape high above the Lac Blanc area. This 90-foot climb is a seamless link between the classic L'Arête and La Face routes, offering a fresh angle on a well-loved cliff system. The approach matches the intensity of the climb: a brisk hike through forested paths leading to a crisp rock face where the sun's warmth fuels the ascent. The starting moves share a footprint with La Face, easing you into the climb with familiar holds, but soon the route diverges, veering right past a tight roof protected by 2 to 3 bolts—this section demands precise footwork and steady hand placement. As you push past the roof, the climb opens into the upper reaches of L’Arête, where verticality intensifies and an exposed feel takes hold. Here, the rock grits between your fingers, and the bolt line guides your ascent steadily to the anchor, located at the 90-foot mark.
Protection on La Farête is straightforward but requires attention—10 well-placed bolts lead to a rappel ring, so climbers can trust the hardware but should stay mindful of spacing and small rests. The rock quality is solid, with reliable holds, but expect brief cruxy sequences around the roof where power and technique blend. The climb’s rating at 5.10c challenges intermediate climbers while remaining accessible to those ready to push their limits. Positioned within the Lac Blanc - Main Cliff system, the route benefits from dappled sunlight in the morning, with the cliff’s southern aspect warming up quickly for early ascents.
This route suits climbers who appreciate sustained technical maneuvers balanced by moments of flow and exposure. The forested trail to the base complements the climbing experience, with pine needles cushioning the ground and the occasional birdcall punctuating the stillness. Planning a day here involves arriving early to secure parking and avoid mid-day heat, wearing shoes that balance sensitivity with edge support for the intricate roof moves, and packing water for the moderate approach. The rappel descent is efficient, easing the return and leaving room in the day for another climb or a peaceful walk around Lac Blanc.
La Farête offers a compact yet fulfilling climb that rewards focus and respect for the rock. Its blend of technical sequences and reliable bolts makes it a standout choice for sport climbers seeking a taste of Quebec’s vertical charm without the commitment of multi-pitch complexity.
While the bolts are solid, pay extra attention when negotiating the roof section as holds are smaller and slightly exposed. The rappel anchor requires a full 60m rope for safe descent, so double-check your rope length before climbing.
Start early to enjoy morning sun warming the south-facing wall.
Wear shoes with good edging for the roof’s technical moves.
Hydrate well before the approach hike and climb.
Check rope length for rappel; 60m rope is recommended for the descent.
This route features 10 bolts leading to a rappel ring anchor. Bring a standard sport climbing rack and a 60m rope for descent. Expect well-placed bolts, with some small rests near the roof section.
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