"KY at the Sex Wall melds steep, feature-rich climbing with a demanding crux that challenges footwork on slick granite. This short but sharp sport route offers alpine exposure and a technical test less than a mile from Courtright Reservoir’s shores."
KY at Sex Wall offers climbers a sharp mix of challenge and exposure set against the rugged backdrop of California's Southern Sierra. Beginning at the far left edge of the Sex Wall, the route launches straight into a steep face peppered with features that provide holds and footholds. This initial section demands careful footwork and body positioning as the rock can be unexpectedly slick, requiring focus and precision. After reaching the third bolt, climbers face the route’s most demanding moment: a crux where the angle eases but the smoothness of the rock intensifies. Passing this bolt means committing to sustained climbing at 5.9 difficulty, where the features become scarce and every move earns its place on the wall.
The route’s 60-foot span culminates with a traverse right to the two-bolt anchor at the top of the nearby Nipple Clip climb, adding an element of route-finding and balance to the final moves. Protection consists of five bolts placed along the face before the traverse, creating a sense of security even as the technical demands grow. The rock’s alpine nature brings a firm but polished texture, presenting a test for grip especially in cooler or damp conditions.
Located within easy reach of Courtright Reservoir, this climb is a fine choice for sport climbers seeking alpine altitude and a short, intense challenge in the Southern Sierra’s open granite faces. The wall faces west, offering afternoon sun that warms the rock through much of the climbing window, but morning ascents can be brisk. Access is straightforward, with a hike from the reservoir gaining minimal elevation before arriving at the base. Climbers should bring sturdy shoes that handle slick granite well and pack water for the dry Sierra air.
This route's beauty lies in its concentrated difficulty and clean lines, making it a solid workout with a clear beta and secure protection. While the grade is moderate, the slipperiness of the rock adds a fresh edge that demands respect—and a steady nerve. Expect a blend of calculated moves and flowing sequences, all within a setting that highlights the wide-open feel of the California high country. Whether you’re topping out on your first 5.10 or honing your alpine sport skills, KY provides an accessible yet sincere challenge that leaves you connected to the rock and environment alike.
Watch for the slippery granite surfaces, especially near the crux and during the traverse at the top. Rock is generally solid, but the smoothness can challenge footing. Take care on the traverse to the anchor, as footing is limited and the ledges narrow.
Start early to beat the afternoon heat on this west-facing wall.
Wear climbing shoes with sticky rubber to handle slick granite patches.
Hydrate well before and after the climb; water sources are limited near the base.
Scout the traverse to the anchor carefully—footing can be insecure and wind exposure is notable.
The climb is protected by five bolts leading up the steep face, ending with a traverse to a two-bolt anchor on Nipple Clip. Bring quickdraws for each bolt and be prepared for a delicate footwork crux just past the third bolt.
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