"Kor's Door stands out on Long's Peak as a reliable alpine trad climb featuring excellent crack systems and superb rock quality. Four pitches of solid 5.9- climbing offer a rewarding challenge amid classic alpine exposure and stunning Rocky Mountain landscapes."
Kor's Door offers climbers an unforgettable alpine trad experience on Long's Peak's Lower East Face. This route tackles a clean, rocky buttress just left of Stettner's Ledges, delivering 4 pitches of pure crack climbing against flawless alpine stone. The climb balances technical challenge and secure protection at a solid 5.9-, inviting those ready to test their skills in a high-altitude environment. To begin, approach through the broad basin near Mill's Glacier, navigating some Class 4 ledges and possibly patchy snow or ice en route. This initial approach warns of a lively rockfall zone beneath The Notch, where swift, focused movement is essential to avoid falling debris. Once past the hazards, the terrain opens onto a broken buttress protected from rockfall hazards, crowned by a grassy ledge that marks your launch point.
Pitch one guides you up and right, weaving through a handcrack and a small roof before reaching a cozy belay stance. The crack and corner system here is inviting, requiring steady footwork and solid crack technique. Continuing up pitch two, fixed pins appear amid the climbing, offering confidence as you negotiate another roof and transition into a thin right-facing corner. A full 60-meter rope lets you combine pitches two and three if desired, pressing on to a ledge with a belay that sets the stage for the crux pitches.
Pitch three features multiple exit options, including moving into large right-facing corners leading into Stettner's Ledges. This section may require simul-climbing—a good opportunity to practice smooth rope management and team communication. After reaching Broadway, the final approach toward the summit unfolds. Climbers can traverse below The Notch to link to Kiener's Route and from there, the summit, or choose descent options like the iconic Lamb's Slide. This key downclimb demands crampons and an ice axe for safety, while Alexander's Chimney offers an alternative rappel descent.
Kor's Door rewards with rock quality that feels as reliable as it looks, from approach to summit ridge. The route’s protection relies mostly on a range of cams—from wires to 3-inch devices—and some fixed pins peppered throughout, so a well-prepared rack and light packs keep movement crisp and efficient. The alpine setting means sudden weather shifts can affect conditions quickly, so preparation and timing are paramount. A helmet is mandatory, especially around The Notch area where rocks cascade with little warning.
Beyond its technical demands, the climb offers sensory engagement with the mountain. The cool alpine air hints at glaciers nearby; the rock’s texture invites friction and holds that reward careful placement. The broad vista from the ledges opens to sweeping views of the basin below, grounding climbers in the wild character of Rocky Mountain National Park. Kor's Door is both a call to focused effort and a quiet communion with the mountain’s rugged face, perfect for climbers who appreciate hands-on, unvarnished alpine adventure.
Beware of loose rock and frequent rockfall below The Notch, especially during warm midday hours. The approach and descent can include slippery snow and Class 4 exposure; proper footwear and caution are critical. Helmets and swift route-finding through the rockfall zone are crucial for safety.
Move swiftly beneath The Notch to minimize exposure to frequent rockfall.
Expect to cross snow or ice patches near the base; crampons and axe may be needed.
Consider combining pitches 2 and 3 with a 60m rope to maintain flow.
Helmet use is essential given known rockfall hazards in the approach and ascent.
Bring one complete set of wires up to 3" cams, slings, and be prepared to use some fixed pins along the route. A light rack is preferred for easier movement.
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