HomeClimbingKoon's Corner

Koon's Corner: A Stemming Challenge on South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon

Lyons, Colorado United States
stemming
trad protection
single pitch
clean rock
brush needed
Colorado canyon
Length: 110 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Koon's Corner
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Koon's Corner presents a 110-foot single-pitch trad climb that challenges climbers with stemming moves on solid rock in South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon. Perfect for those honing trad techniques, this route offers a raw, active connection with Colorado’s rugged canyon walls."

Koon's Corner: A Stemming Challenge on South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon

Koon's Corner offers a focused but rewarding trad climb that invites you into the rugged contours of South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon near Lyons, Colorado. This single-pitch 110-foot route transforms the typical crack-climbing expectation into a test of stemming and body positioning, requiring careful footwork and strategic placement rather than straightforward jams. The rock itself is solid and textured, providing reliable holds that feel tactile underhand and finger edges, though the line could benefit from a sweep with a brush to clear away dirt and loose debris. Despite its modest reputation in ratings, this climb demands attention to technique and gear backup, making it an excellent option for climbers looking to sharpen their trad skills in a setting that feels raw and a little wild.

Approaching the climb, the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon opens gradually, with scrub brush and towering pines lining the trail that leads up to the base. The canyon walls stand firm, their ochre and gray hues marked by weathering that accentuates every hold. As you prepare to climb, the route’s distinctive stemming sections require you to brace against opposing walls, pushing outwards to maintain balance and momentum. The solid rock surface provides reassuring friction, but being mindful of your placements is key since the route favors length and endurance over brief bursts of power.

Protection is straightforward yet essential — a single rack extending from small nuts and cams to large three-inch pieces offers ample security, allowing you to manage gear placements efficiently without overloading your harness. The gear fits securely in the varied seams and pockets, and while no fixed anchors are present, the natural features allow for peace of mind as you progress. Given the route’s structure, have a brush handy to clean holds that might still gather dust or loose flakes, improving grip and helping future climbers experience a safer ascent.

From a logistical perspective, aim to climb during mid-morning or late afternoon for moderate temperatures and subtle shade cast by surrounding trees. Early spring through fall is ideal, as icy winter conditions can complicate both access and climbing. Footwear with sticky rubber is essential to maintain traction on the smoothed rock faces, and hydrating adequately before your start maximizes endurance on this sustained, tech-heavy climb.

Though the route’s star rating leans modestly, the experience here transcends numbers. Koon’s Corner is less about flashy moves and more about steady, confident progression and appreciating the raw interaction between you and the canyon’s sculpted walls. After completing the pitch, descend by the short walk-off trail looping back to the trailhead, surface secure but uneven—watch your step with loose rock or root exposures.

Whether you’re refreshing stemming technique or eager to enjoy a quiet yet engaging climb in Colorado’s dramatic canyon country, this line delivers a grounded adventure with just enough challenge to keep your focus sharp and your hands busy. Remember to leave the route better than you found it—a quick brush might be the small act that keeps this climb thriving for years to come.

Climber Safety

Though the rock quality is generally solid, areas can accumulate dirt and loose debris, so thorough brushing is advised before climbing. The route lacks fixed anchors, so make sure all gear placements are secure. The approach trail has exposed roots and sections of loose rock; take care descending to avoid slips.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length110 feet

Local Tips

Bring a climbing brush to clear holds and improve grip before starting.

Use sticky-soled climbing shoes for better traction on smoothed rock faces.

Plan to climb mid-morning or late afternoon when temperatures are moderate.

Be prepared for a short walk-off descent; watch for loose rocks and roots.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:While rated 5.9, Koon's Corner feels more like a sustained technical climb than a raw test of strength. The stemming moves, combined with solid but sometimes tricky protection placements, add a layer of complexity that can push the grade up a notch for climbers unfamiliar with this style. Compared to nearby 5.9 routes that favor crack jams, this one stands out for its assumption of balance and footwork over brute force.

Gear Requirements

A single trad rack covering small nuts up to 3-inch cams is sufficient. The gear placements are straightforward, fitting securely in the varied seams, requiring moderate experience with protection placement. Carry a small brush to improve hold condition and ensure solid hand- and footholds.

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Tags

stemming
trad protection
single pitch
clean rock
brush needed
Colorado canyon