"Komodo Corner delivers two pitches of clean, enjoyable crack climbing at the edge of the Godzilla Face. Its hands-only jams and steadily widening corners offer an excellent test for climbers looking to refine technique in a quieter part of Suicide Rock’s vast granite walls."
Komodo Corner stands as a straightforward yet solid introduction to traditional crack climbing within the lesser-traveled edges of the Godzilla Face at Suicide Rock. For climbers seeking hands-on engagement with a two-pitch route that demands controlled technique and steady placement, this climb offers a clear line sculpted by clean cracks and sharp corners. The granite here feels raw and honest, requiring you to trust your jams and handholds as you ascend, with each pitch encouraging thoughtful movement over the rock’s natural ledges.
Pitch one challenges you with a hands-only crack that runs up a slightly overhanging section. The crux invites you to power through a snug bulge, rewarding confident grip and steady footwork. The rock’s texture is firm and reliable, letting you focus on technique rather than testing trust in holds. As you move higher, the corner widens slightly but keeps that pure hands grip, making it both physically engaging and rhythmically satisfying.
Pitch two softens into a cleaner, more open corner that transitions from finger jams to expansive hand cracks near the top. This pitch grants a steady rhythm but demands meticulous protection placement. The route’s position on the right end of the Godzilla Face ensures a quiet atmosphere, even on busier weekends at Suicide Rock. Expect dappled sunlight filtering through nearby pines, stirring the cool desert breeze along the cliff’s edges.
Given its moderate 5.8 rating, Komodo Corner is approachable for climbers moving past the beginner phase, eager to sharpen crack skills while enjoying a route that flows naturally. The area’s proximity to other classic routes means you can batch your day with varied climbs, but this one holds special appeal for those wanting less crowded ascents with solid granite and thoughtful movement.
Bring a standard trad rack, with an emphasis on extra hand-size protection to account for the crack’s expanding nature on pitch two. Comfortable, purposeful footwork and solid jam techniques will unlock the best flow on the route. Early morning ascents help beat the heat and offer the quietest access, making this a rewarding climb for those who plan wisely. Whether you're honing crack skills or simply chasing the satisfaction of a clean, well-protected line, Komodo Corner provides a crisp climbing experience grounded in classic granite challenge.
Watch for loose rock near the base of the climb and exercise care when placing protection in the wider hand jams on pitch two. The approach can be slick with loose gravel, so maintain sure footing to avoid slips on descent trails.
Start early to avoid the midday desert heat and enjoy cooler rock temperatures.
Focus on clean hand jams and secure placements over power moves to conserve energy.
Carry extra slings for potential trickier placements on the second pitch’s wider sections.
Approach trails are dry with loose gravel—wear sturdy, grippy footwear for the trek in.
A traditional rack covers this route well, but climbers should bring extra hand-sized cams to protect the widening cracks on the second pitch. Standard nuts and cams from small to large provide solid protection options throughout.
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