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King Crack Uncommon: A Raw Finger Crack in the Alabama Hills

Lone Pine, California United States
finger crack
thin hands
loose flakes
single pitch
trad
alabama hills
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
King Crack Uncommon
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Located in the rugged Alabama Hills, King Crack Uncommon invites climbers to test precise finger locks and thin hands jams on a single 50-foot pitch. With careful gear placements and an eye on unstable flakes, this route offers a straightforward but demanding crack climb away from busy trails."

King Crack Uncommon: A Raw Finger Crack in the Alabama Hills

Set against the stark backdrop of the Alabama Hills, King Crack Uncommon challenges climbers with a single pitch of technical finger and thin hands crack climbing. This 50-foot route lies within the remote but accessible Eye of Horus sector, a rugged zone offering both solitude and raw Sierra granite texture. The crack itself cuts a clean line through the rock—a clear invitation for gear to find purchase, yet it demands precision and patience. Loose plates and flakes pepper sections of the climb, cautioning practitioners to move deliberately and test placements carefully before committing to each move.

Approaching this line, the desert air hums with heat by midday, pushing the best window for a climb to early morning or late afternoon when shade shifts across the face. The rock’s sunbaked surface radiates warmth, but the modest elevation above Lone Pine provides a breath of cooler breeze from the Sierra crest. The route's 5.10a rating sits true to form, with a crux involving subtle body tension and foot jams within the slender crack. Tactical gear placement is paramount here—nuts and cams up to 1.5 inches fit snugly, but the abundance of potential loose flake sections calls for extra vigilance on protection.

King Crack Uncommon offers more than just physical challenge; it extends a quiet dialogue between climber and stone. The crack dares you to master its grip while testing your judgement on protection and hold integrity. Though it sees few ascents—reflected in modest star ratings—it remains a compelling training ground for those ready to sharpen their crack skills in a setting that refuses to soften its edges.

Practical planning is crucial: pack a full rack of nuts and cams, ensure harness and rope setups accommodate a smooth single-pitch ascent, and prepare for a varied approach trail through rolling outcrops and scattered rock debris. The descent is straightforward by downclimb, but loose rock near the base requires cautious footwork. Lone Pine, just a short drive away, provides last-minute amenities, making this route an ideal afternoon fix after exploring the broader Alabama Hills formations. Whether reinforcing crack technique or seeking a quieter line away from crowded classics, King Crack Uncommon stands as a gritty, unvarnished climb demanding respect and focus.

Climber Safety

Loose plates and flakes on the route increase the risk of unreliable holds and placements; climbers should test every piece of protection and handhold thoroughly. The rocky terrain at the base can be unstable, so secure footing while downclimbing is essential.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Climb early or late in the day to avoid intense sun exposure.

Test flakes and loose plates before trusting them for protection or holds.

Pack nuts and cams up to 1.5" for optimal gear placements.

The descent can be downclimbed with care—watch footing near loose rocks.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a rating accurately reflects the technical demands of tight finger jams coupled with delicate body positioning. The grade feels slightly stiff due to the need for precise gear placements in thin cracks and the caution required around flaky rock. Compared to other Alabama Hills cracks, this route demands more focus on protection judgment rather than sheer physical power.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full rack of nuts and cams up to 1.5 inches to accommodate slender placements. The anchor uses open shuts for lowering. Loose flakes present risk, so test all gear carefully before weighting.

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Tags

finger crack
thin hands
loose flakes
single pitch
trad
alabama hills