HomeClimbingKilling in the Name

Killing in the Name: A Hands-On Trad Challenge at Lost Angel

Boulder, Colorado United States
crack climbing
bulge crux
single pitch
east-facing
solid pro
beginners welcome
Length: 70 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Killing in the Name
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Killing in the Name offers a focused trad experience on the left edge of Wake Up Wall in Upper Dream Canyon. With balanced moves over 70 feet and modest protection needs, this route is a practical yet challenging introduction to Boulder’s classic trad lines."

Killing in the Name: A Hands-On Trad Challenge at Lost Angel

Killing in the Name stakes its claim on the far left edge of Wake Up Wall, inviting climbers into a focused, single-pitch adventure in the Upper Dream Canyon area near Boulder, Colorado. This trad route spreads across 70 feet of balanced technical movement, demanding solid gear placement and quiet confidence on a modest but memorable face. The approach to the climb feels personal—start just beside a small, isolated tree marking the line’s beginning, a subtle signpost in a rugged corner of this busy climbing zone.

From the get-go, the route tests your footwork and gear skills. A bolt high on the first section offers a reliable clip, anchoring you before the crux—a bulging move that asks for precision and power to pull through. After this, a second bulge adds a compelling challenge, followed by slightly flared cracks that ease toward the two-bolt anchor stance where your belayer waits securely perched on a hanging slab. This ledge may look exposed, so climbers should consider building a solid belay anchor with larger cams to keep everyone comfortable and confident.

Though the climb ranks as a 5.9-, it feels a notch more accessible than Boulder’s more legendary 5.9s, such as Emerald City, thanks to its straightforward gear placements and less sustained intensity. It offers a rewarding balance of engaging moves and an approachable grade, appealing to trad climbers eager to sharpen crack skills and gain familiarity with pro management on traditionally protected lines.

The setting itself is distinct—wakeful cliffs that attract a steady stream of climbers, but this route’s leftward position grants a bit of seclusion from the main traffic. The rock is solid with fine friction, and the wall’s aspect means it catches morning light, warming the stone for a smooth start to your climb. You'll appreciate the mix of hand jams and smears, testing your tactile sensitivity while enjoying panoramic views of the canyon’s rugged contours.

Preparation is key for this climb: pack a range of cams up to #3 Camalot, as well as TCUs and a set of nuts to cover the flaring features effectively. Shoes with sticky rubber will give you the edge on small footholds. Plan your climb for morning or early afternoon to avoid the hotter sun later in the day, given the wall's eastern orientation. Hydrate well—while the approach is moderate, the dry Colorado air can sneak up on you.

Access comes via a well-maintained trail through Dream Canyon’s semi-arid forest, offering about 15 minutes of hiking from the nearest parking at Lost Angel. The terrain is rocky but straightforward, with clear markers leading to the Wake Up Wall base. Use GPS coordinates to pinpoint your approach and save time, especially if the area’s popular crowd means you want to optimize your window before peak traffic.

After topping out, rappelling down the established anchors is a smooth, straightforward descent, but take care to double-check your rigging—wind gusts and loose debris occasionally make the ledge below less forgiving. With this climb, you’ll find a compact, compelling test of technical trad skills wrapped in the familiar Colorado alpine environment. It’s a solid pick for those looking to add a reliable single pitch to their repertoire while soaking in the vibrant climbing culture of Boulder’s foreboding canyons.

Climber Safety

Watch your footing on the exposed belay ledge, and build a secure anchor with larger cams. Approach during dry weather to avoid slippery rock and be mindful of loose debris during descent.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Start near the small tree marking the far left side of Wake Up Wall for easy route finding.

Build a solid belay anchor with big cams; the belay ledge is exposed and perched on a slab.

Morning climbs are best to avoid direct afternoon sun on this east-facing wall.

Double-check anchor placements before rappelling due to occasional loose debris on the ledge.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:This 5.9- route feels approachable for intermediate trad climbers, with a rating that leans softer compared to Boulder classics like Emerald City. The moves 'pop' on the bulges but the straightforward protection and rhythmic crack sections ease the overall difficulty.

Gear Requirements

Essential gear includes cams up to #3 Camalot, plus TCUs and nuts to safely protect the flaring cracks, with a bolt near the crux for clipping. Carry larger cams to build a secure belay anchor on the hanging slab belay ledge.

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Tags

crack climbing
bulge crux
single pitch
east-facing
solid pro
beginners welcome