"Kenny vs Spenny offers an intense, varied 80-foot pitch in Squamish’s granite playground. This 5.12a sport climb moves from deceptively easy beginnings to a powerful bulge and technical corner that demand precision and commitment."
Kenny vs Spenny cuts a bold line up the rugged granite faces of Squamish, British Columbia, offering climbers an engaging and diverse challenge that grows in intensity as you ascend. With a single pitch stretching approximately 80 feet, this sport route demands focus and finesse, beginning with moderate moves that guide you effortlessly into the heart of the climb. The route’s first real test emerges at a steep bulge—an overhanging section where strength meets strategy. Here, holds become smaller and more demanding, teasing your grip and forcing mindful body positioning. This bulge is immediately followed by a corner that shifts the style; slick, unusual holds make the crux of the climb feel like a puzzle, encouraging climbers to adapt and trust their technique.
As you push past this technical section, the climb doesn’t simply let you rest. Instead, it transitions into a series of layback moves that are easier in terms of finger strength but carry a mental weight. These moves feel exposed, asking you to commit with precision and confidence as you edge towards the top anchor. The fixed biners and chains waiting to receive you offer solid protection, yet the stretch feels personal and won’t forgive hesitation. The granite’s texture here is unforgiving but rewarding, presenting a tactile experience that tests climbers across skill sets.
Located within the Fern Hill area accessed via Mamquam FSR, Kenny vs Spenny sits in a well-known climb zone favored for its solid rock quality and straightforward approach. The route’s 5.12a rating slots it firmly in the realm of advanced sport climbs, pairing physical endurance with technical climbing savvy. This route doesn’t just challenge your ability—it invites you to feel the transitions in the rock beneath your hands, from the initial comfortable moves to the commanding presence of the crux.
Squamish’s climate delivers a mixed bag of conditions, but the granite maintains consistent friction, especially when dry. Plan your climb during drier months to ensure the slick corner won’t become hazardous. Hydration and a well-fitting pair of shoes with sensitive edging will make the difference as you navigate the nuanced holds and powerful bulge. Access requires a brief trek along a maintained forestry service road, but the approach is forgiving and reasonably direct, leaving more energy for the climb itself.
In summary, Kenny vs Spenny is a compact, memorable sport climb that tests mental and physical agility in equal measure. Whether you’re aiming to sharpen your technique on steeper terrain or chase a bold 5.12 challenge in British Columbia’s world-class climbing arena, this route serves as a demanding yet rewarding adventure within reach.
Watch your foot placements near the bulge and corner, as the rock can be deceptively slick—dry conditions are a must. The fixed anchors are solid, but aim to clip cleanly to avoid rope drag or falls on smaller ledges.
Approach via the Mamquam FSR trailhead; the route is about a 15-minute walk from the parking area.
Ensure your shoes have solid edging capabilities for the slick crux corner.
Start early to avoid warming granite and falling afternoon sun that can reduce friction.
Hydrate well before climbing; the steeper sections require sustained power and focus.
Bolted route with reliable fixed biners and chains at the anchor. Bring lightweight sport draws and a strong, tested set of quickdraws to efficiently clip through the crux sections.
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