"Keep Your Heid blends sustained alpine mixed climbing with technical ice and rock pitches, set against the raw backdrop north of Whistler. Its demanding M5 sections and exposed runout ridge challenge climbers seeking a committed adventure on classic Sea to Sky terrain."
Keep Your Heid offers an intense blend of alpine mixed climbing that tests your skills across ice, rock, and snow in the wilds north of Whistler. The route begins as a narrow iced-over gully where you tighten your grip on winter climbing fundamentals. Early on, an M5 crux challenges you under a low roof, demanding controlled power and precision. Moving higher, the terrain shifts to WI3 steps accompanied by an outstanding side crack perfect for solid pro placements. The belay station rests precariously on a horn beneath a daunting 70-meter pitch of sparse, thin rock and ice, where protection is few and far between.
From here, the climb presses onward with simul-climbing across delicate mixed ground, leading you to the base of an M5 face crowned by fragile ice. Veering left, you round a corner into more technical mixed climbing before reaching a small pine belay, again 70 meters up. This is the gateway to the final five pitches, a stretch of 5.9 runout climbing tracing the right ridge through the intriguing standing waves route. The exposure here is profound; gear placements are hard to find, rewarding those with confidence and calculated moves.
The summit reveals itself beyond the ridge, a hard-earned perch offering views of untamed alpine terrain stretching into British Columbia’s Sea to Sky corridor. Descending involves crossing a plateau before dropping onto the glacier, demanding careful navigation and respect for shifting ice conditions.
Gear considerations include a single rack to 3 with doubles in the .75 and 1 sizes, supplemented by a single rack of nuts and a couple of ice screws. Sparse protection demands steady nerves and solid technique, especially during the runout pitches. The route’s mix of snow, ice, and traditional rock climbing creates a dynamic climbing experience that rewards preparation, focus, and adaptability.
Keep Your Heid is a route for those eager to push their alpine mixed skills with a reasonable commitment to a classic Sea to Sky alpine adventure. Plan for cold, unpredictable weather and bring layered clothing, reliable crampons, and precise ice tools. Start early to avoid afternoon weather shifts and keep extra attention on the glacier descent. This climb simultaneously invites you to embrace its challenge while respecting the hazards it throws at every step.
Protection is limited across key pitches, demanding meticulous gear placements and focus. The glacier descent requires awareness of crevasses and changing ice conditions—travel with appropriate glacier safety gear and time your descent before warming weather sets in.
Begin early to avoid afternoon weather changes common in alpine environments.
Wear stiff-soled crampons and bring technical ice tools for mixed sections.
Be prepared for long runout pitches where protection is limited; mental focus is key.
Plan your descent carefully—glacier navigation requires proper equipment and timing.
A single rack to #3, backed with doubles in .75 and 1 sizes, alongside a single rack of nuts and two ice screws covers the spectrum of protection on this route. Sparse placements on the upper pitches require confident gear placement skills, especially on the thin rock and ice sections.
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