Adventure Collective

Kahanna: An Unforgiving Finger Crack in the San Bernardino Mountains

Big Bear Lake, California United States
finger crack
technical crux
balancy ramp
single pitch
small pro
loose rock warning
southern exposure
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Kahanna
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Kahanna offers a demanding single-pitch climb in the San Bernardino Mountains, blending balancy approach moves with a sharp technical crux beneath a roof, culminating in a rewarding finger crack ascent. Its modest length hides a concentration of challenging moves and delicate protection, ideal for climbers seeking a precise test."

Kahanna: An Unforgiving Finger Crack in the San Bernardino Mountains

Kahanna carves a bold line in the rugged face of the San Bernardino Mountains, offering a climbing experience that challenges both balance and finesse. From the moment you step onto the ramp, the route asserts itself with a delicate sequence demanding precision and confidence. The approach up the ramp is not just a physical test—it requires calm calculation as the angle pushes your footing and weight distribution. Past this balancing act, the climb pivots into technical territory beneath a stubborn roof where committed moves become mandatory.

Emerging from the roof’s shadow, climbers are met with the payoff: a striking finger crack that runs like a lifeline up the rock. This crack grabs your fingers and rewards steady hands with secure jams and delicate placements. There's a raw honesty in every hold, each one requiring intention and connection with the stone. The rock above the bolt demands respect—its loose pockets warn the belayer to stay sharp and vigilant throughout the ascent.

At a modest length of 60 feet and rated 5.10a, Kahanna is a single-pitch test that packs a concentrated punch. The protection layout mixes a lone bolt at the bottom with small cams ranging from tiny yellow Metolius TCU to orange and yellow Camalots up to 1 inch in size. Placement is tricky and calls for a confident rack with specialized gear if you want to protect the crux moves and the tricky ramp section effectively. Chains at the top provide a secure anchor for descent or lowering.

Located within the Big Bear Lake Area, the access to Kahanna follows forested trails that grow quieter the closer you get to Hanna Rocks. The route climaxes high enough that sweeping views of the San Bernardino range reward the effort, with the scent of pine and dry rock blending in the warm air. This spot beckons repeat visits, promising a climb as rewarding as it is demanding.

Plan your climb to avoid the hottest parts of summer—morning or late-afternoon ascents offer the best conditions with comfortable temperatures and shade cast by the southern-facing wall. Proper footwear with good edge stability will be key on the balancing approach, and make no mistake: hydration and clear headspace will carry you through the technical crux and finger crack that define this climb.

Kahanna is not for the faint-hearted or the gear-light. It’s a route where precision pays dividends and where every move demands a full commitment. Whether you’re looking to sharpen your trad skills or simply test your ability on a technical crack featured in a rewarding high-desert environment, Kahanna stands ready to challenge and inspire.

Climber Safety

The rock above the bolt near the roof section is somewhat loose; both climbers and belayers should remain cautious. Approach the ramp with steady footing as it requires delicate balance on potentially slick terrain. Avoid climbing after heavy rains when the rock may be unstable or slippery.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Watch your footing on the ramp—balance and sequence are key to avoid slips.

Bring a rack focused on small cams for secure protection placements.

Start early or later in the day to avoid peak sun and heat on the south-facing wall.

The loose rock above the bolt means belayers should stay alert and keep clear.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:At 5.10a, Kahanna sits in the moderate trad difficulty range but feels distinctly stiff due to the technical balance required on the initial ramp and the demanding moves under the roof. The crux sequence forces deliberate, precise placements in a finger crack that’s more sustained than it appears. Climbers familiar with Big Bear North’s trad routes will find Kahanna a satisfying niche challenge with pockets of complexity uncommon for its height.

Gear Requirements

The route starts with a single bolt at the base then requires small gear placements primarily in the finger crack: yellow and orange Camalots, C4s as small as .4, and Metolius TCUs up to 1 inch. Chains secure the anchor at the top.

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Tags

finger crack
technical crux
balancy ramp
single pitch
small pro
loose rock warning
southern exposure