HomeClimbingJust Wanna Jam

Just Wanna Jam at Backside Crags

Squamish, Canada
hand crack
slab climbing
single pitch
finger crack variation
bolted
cam protection
technical
Squamish granite
Length: 95 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Just Wanna Jam
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Just Wanna Jam carves a direct, handcrack line up Squamish’s Backside Crags, blending technical slab moves with satisfying crack jamming. This single-pitch offers thoughtful protection and a crux that challenges balance and persistence."

Just Wanna Jam at Backside Crags

Just Wanna Jam offers a singular pitch of compelling trad climbing that challenges both technique and composure on Squamish’s renowned Backside Crags. This route stakes out a direct path up a prominent handcrack that immediately engages your fingers and feet, demanding precise jamming skills. The climb begins with three well-placed bolts protecting moderate terrain leading to a comfortable ledge where you can gather strength and focus before the real test.

From the ledge, Just Wanna Jam turns technical as it veers into tricky slab climbing peppered with pockets and dike holds that test balance and footwork. These subtle moves add a delicate nuance to the climb, ensuring that pure power isn’t the only tool in your kit. Eventually, this section opens into a more straightforward yet fun crack that you can follow to the top. The route offers a crucial crux where pulling on the quickdraws can ease the difficulty to 5.10 A0 for those moments when your shoes and crack placement don’t align perfectly. For climbers seeking sustained difficulty, a variation shifts left from the main handcrack and connects to a finger crack that keeps you engaged throughout, demanding consistent attention and stamina.

Situated within the dramatic landscape of Shannon Falls and Squamish’s granite walls, the Backside Crags provide a quiet corner of challenging climbs surrounded by dense forest and rugged cliffs. The area's granite, known for its solid and varied texture, offers both reliable protection placements and rewarding holds. Climbers should come prepared with a good rack of cams from .75 to 2 inches as well as confidence on bolts since the initial moderate moves are bolted for safety.

The approach to Just Wanna Jam is straightforward, making it accessible for a half-day adventure. The well-marked trail meanders through shaded woodland, allowing you to arrive at the base refreshed and ready. Timing your climb to avoid midday heat is ideal, as parts of the granite face can absorb sunlight and radiate warmth. Early morning or late afternoon sessions grant a cooler, more comfortable climb.

With only one pitch extending 95 feet, Just Wanna Jam is efficient but packed with vertical action. Squamish’s natural elements seem to participate in the ascent — pockets inviting fingertips, cracks whispering through hands, and the forest hum framing your progress. For those seeking a technically rewarding route without committing to multi-pitch complexity, this climb strikes a fine balance.

Gear up carefully: quickdraws for bolts, a solid cam rack as noted, snug shoes that excel at edging and jamming, and a willingness to adjust tactics quickly during the crux moves. This route rewards precision and calm under pressure, offering a memorable taste of Squamish’s granite challenge. Whether you flash the route or work the moves for several goes, Just Wanna Jam stakes its claim as a climb that sharpens skill and delivers satisfying handcrack climbing within a stunning coastal setting.

Climber Safety

Watch your footing on the slab section, as the pockets can be slippery if wet. The bolt placements are solid but limited, so the cams play a vital role for protection, particularly on the upper crack where fall potential increases. Always check gear placements carefully before committing to moves above.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length95 feet

Local Tips

Approach via the well-marked trail through forest; expect about 20 minutes of hiking.

Start early to avoid the afternoon sun warming the granite face.

Bring a medium rack of cams (.75 to 2) plus quickdraws for bolts.

Practice hand and finger jams beforehand; the crux demands precise technique.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.12a
Quality
Consensus:While rated at 5.12a, Just Wanna Jam feels approachable for climbers comfortable on sustained handcracks and slab moves. The presence of a well-placed crux near the quickdraws allows some to soften the grade to 5.10 using A0 techniques, but the slab and finger crack variation keep the challenge consistent. Compared to other Squamish climbs at this grade, it's more technical than purely powerful, rewarding finesse over brute strength.

Gear Requirements

The route depends on three bolts for initial protection and requires a set of cams ranging roughly from .75 to 2 inches to secure the hand and finger crack sections. Climbing shoes with precise edging capability and flexible jamming comfort are recommended to negotiate the slab and crack sections effectively.

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Tags

hand crack
slab climbing
single pitch
finger crack variation
bolted
cam protection
technical
Squamish granite