HomeClimbingJust Scraping By

Just Scraping By at Cascade Falls

Yosemite Valley, California United States
finger cracks
chimney
double-rope
dirt-filled cracks
blocky cracks
trad protection
Yosemite
Length: 120 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Just Scraping By
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Just Scraping By challenges climbers with its finger to hand crack system cut through a demanding chimney feature. This gritty Yosemite trad route offers a hands-on, tactile climbing experience that tests both technique and tenacity."

Just Scraping By at Cascade Falls

Just Scraping By cracks open a challenging, hands-on experience for climbers who appreciate the grit beneath their fingertips and the feel of a true Yosemite trad line. This single-pitch, 120-foot route threads its way upward through a series of finger to hand-sized cracks embedded in a raw chimney system. The climb begins with slim cracks demanding precise jamming and occasional stemming, pushing you to engage both strength and balance early. As you advance, a massive flake leans sharply overhead, transforming the climb into a roomy chimney that invites you to press your feet outward and rely on deliberate body positioning to push onward. The rhythm here shifts as you stem across or around the flake, maintaining contact, using the flake’s texture as your guide. Once over this key feature, the route doesn’t relent; instead, you'll tackle a handful of blocky, less predictable cracks to finish off. These final moves require careful footwork and steady hand placements, demanding attention even as you near the top.

The setting itself—the Cascade Falls area within Yosemite National Park—offers a rugged backdrop with the sound of rushing water nearby, reminding you constantly that nature runs wild here. Approaching this climb requires patience, as the route is not heavily trafficked and can feel quite obscure. The cracks often harbor dirt and debris, adding a layer of challenge by forcing you to clean and test holds as you progress. This isn’t a climb for those wanting a polished experience; it rewards persistence and respect for raw stone.

Gear selection is critical on Just Scraping By. Small stoppers and a selection of finger to hand-sized camming devices, including a few pieces up to 3 inches, form the backbone of your protection strategy. The crack sizes are consistent but variable enough that being prepared for tricky placements is wise. Also worth noting, the climb's length means a single rope top-rope setup likely won’t reach the bottom, so a double-rope technique is preferred for top-roping or rappelling. This practical detail ensures safety and convenience, especially when managing rope drag on the somewhat wandering line.

Whether you’re an experienced climber seeking an isolated line away from Yosemite’s busier faces or an adventurous trad enthusiast looking to hone crack climbing skills, Just Scraping By demands focus and offers a tactile connection to the rock. The climb forms a conversation between fingers, feet, and stone, pressing you to read the movements carefully and trust your placements.

Expect to spend extra time cleaning and exploring the route on your first visit—its obscurity is part of its character. The approach trails around Cascade Falls are quiet and shaded by towering pines, giving a peaceful start to your day. Bring plenty of water, especially in warmer months, and sturdy shoes for the dirt-covered cracks you’ll face on route. Timing your climb for the early morning or late afternoon can afford relief from the sun and a cooler rock surface, allowing your hands to maintain grip longer.

Post-climb, the serene Lower Merced River Canyon provides an ideal spot to reflect on the enriched experience, with the river’s current inviting you to relax your muscles as the wilderness buzzes around. Just Scraping By is a test of methodical technique, practical preparation, and a steady mindset—worthy of those ready to embrace a slightly rougher diamond in Yosemite’s rich climbing portfolio.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose blocks near the top, and anticipate tricky protection placements in the dirty cracks. A cautious approach to stemming and chimney moves is key to avoiding slips. The route’s obscurity also calls for careful route-finding and cleaning before climbing.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length120 feet

Local Tips

Expect dirty cracks; bring a small brush and be ready to clean holds.

Use a double-rope system for top-roping or rappelling due to route length.

Plan early morning or late afternoon ascents to avoid sun exposure.

Wear sturdy climbing shoes with good smearing ability for blocky sections.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating here is straightforward but feels a bit stiff given the route’s obscurity and the challenge of cleaning dirty cracks on the fly. The chimney section demands solid stemming technique and balance, adding a physical crux that elevates the effort beyond just the numerical grade.

Gear Requirements

Hand and finger sized cams are essential, complemented by small stoppers and a couple of 3-inch pieces to adequately protect the varied crack widths.

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Tags

finger cracks
chimney
double-rope
dirt-filled cracks
blocky cracks
trad protection
Yosemite