"Jungle of Stone offers a compact one-pitch climb blending solid hand crack jams and bolt-protected slab moves on Sleeping Beauty's far left side. Ideal for climbers seeking a mix of trad placements and sport protection in a quiet Boulder Canyon setting."
Jungle of Stone carves a textured line on the far left flank of Sleeping Beauty in Boulder Canyon, Colorado. This one-pitch route delivers a compact yet rewarding experience blending traditional gear placements with well-placed bolts—perfect for climbers who appreciate an engaging hand crack and a moderate bulge crux. To find the start, follow the base trail until you reach a cluster of vegetated ledges hugging the cliff’s edge. From there, a short scramble backward and right leads you to a right-facing corner with a well-defined hand crack that immediately invites jamming and steady upward moves.
The climb demands attention early, as you clip a bolt and settle into the corner where solid hand jams keep you locked in. The crux comes quickly—a roof with a single bolt guards the move. It’s a somewhat exposed transition, requiring strength and finesse to pull over with careful footwork and steady body tension. Sparse pro placements push you to trust your gear and methodical climbing style.
After conquering the roof, the route eases slightly as you move up and left to a comfortable stance. From here, a smooth traverse right, past a small tree, brings you onto a slab section dotted with bolts—shared with the adjacent Black Rain 10b route. The slab moves require confidence in balance and footwork, rewarding precise edging and delicate weight shifts.
At 115 feet, the climb wraps at a two-bolt anchor shared with Black Rain. From the top, a 120-foot rappel returns you cleanly to the base. This descent is straightforward but make sure your rappel rope and gear are rated for the full length.
Gear selection is key for safety and flow: doubles in the red and yellow Camalot sizes cover the range of placements, with small to medium-sized nuts and cams complementing the protection around the corner and roof. Four quickdraws handle bolts efficiently, while the varying crack widths suggest a flexible rack strategy.
Situated within the larger Boulder Canyon climbing corridor, Jungle of Stone offers a quieter alternative to the busier faces, with forest-shelf ledges providing a natural platform to organize gear and take breaks. The nearby creek occasionally hums in the background, giving a steady pulse to the environment—you feel the rock’s character here: perceptive and unyielding.
Approach times are reasonable, with the trailhead a 10-15 minute hike from the parking lot, crossing forested stretches and open, sun-dappled rock faces. Morning through early afternoon climbs are ideal, as direct sun warms the slab pitches but leaves the shady corner comfortably cool. Spring through early fall sees the best weather windows though be mindful of sudden afternoon thunderstorms common to the Front Range.
Jungle of Stone appeals to intermediate climbers looking to challenge technique on a varied route without committing to lengthy multi-pitch adventures. Its hand crack demands attention and steady body positioning while bolts ensure protection through the bulge and slab, making it a balanced blend of security and adventure. For those stepping up from sport climbs or bridging into trad, this climb’s mix makes for a precise and memorable outing.
Local tips include starting early to avoid afternoon heat, double-checking rack for smaller gear, and preparing for a short but sharp approach scramble. Remember to respect conservation efforts to maintain vegetation at the base ledges and pack out all trash. Keep an eye on the weather, as lightning risk in this exposed corridor can escalate fast. With the right planning, Jungle of Stone rewards with a compact dose of Colorado climbing grit and grace.
Be cautious around the roof bulge as protection placements are sparse and the move feels insecure. The approach includes scrambling over loose vegetated ledges—watch footing carefully. Rappel with full length ropes rated for 120 feet to avoid hanging on knots.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat on the slab.
Double-check your small to medium cams before climbing.
Prepare for a short scramble to the start from vegetated ledges.
Watch weather closely; afternoon thunderstorms develop quickly in summer.
Bring standard rack to 3 inches with doubles of red and yellow Camalots. Four quickdraws cover bolts. Expect traditional placements in the hand crack and tricky pro above the roof bulge.
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