Judy's on the Drug Squad stands as a compact yet compelling test of traditional climbing prowess on the cliffs of Mount Nemo, within Ontario’s famed Golden Horseshoe bouldering region. This single-pitch, 50-foot route invites climbers to engage with a rugged blocky face that transitions smoothly into a right-facing flake, which widens into a corner demanding steady footwork and confident hand jams. The climb’s defining moment arrives as you negotiate a bulging overhang on the corner’s terminus—here, a bolt offers security, but the natural protection lies slightly out of reach, requiring thoughtful clipping and caution to avoid a pendulum swing in case of a fall.

The rock, characterized by solid edges and clean cracks, offers plenty of opportunities to place gear, but the presence of some fixed bolts disrupts the traditional purity of the route. It’s a route where mental focus is as crucial as physical skill, trading the convenience of modern sport climbing for the satisfaction of mastering natural placements while carefully managing the bolt-protected crux. Gear placements rely heavily on medium-sized to large cams to cover the corner and flake sections, with the incident of a single bolt demanding respect in the bulge’s exposed zone.

Approaching this climb, expect a brief trek through well-trodden trails on Mount Nemo, an area known for sharp limestone features and sweeping views over the surrounding green hills. The crag offers shelter from midday sun, thanks to its partial north-facing orientation, making spring and fall the best seasons for a comfortable ascent. The fixed wrap station at the top allows for a straightforward descent, freeing climbers to savor the experience without worrying about complex downclimbs or risky rappels.

Locally, Judy's on the Drug Squad has earned a reputation for balancing accessibility with a subtle edge—ideal for climbers stepping up into the 5.9 trad realm but wary of overly polished sport routes. Its moderate length and clear, logical line make it a staple for those looking to sharpen crack climbing and flake skills while enjoying the quiet beauty of Mount Nemo’s layered limestone walls. Hydration and solid footwear are essential here, as the approach involves navigating uneven terrain punctuated by loose stones, and the rock demands confident, smearing footwork across variable holds.

Whether preparing your rack with a carefully curated selection of cams or timing your ascent to avoid the afternoon heat and buzzing insects, Judy’s offers an adventure infused with straightforward challenges and a genuine connection to the rock. It’s a climb that invites respect for both the natural features and the subtle human interventions that coexist on this face, shaping a memorable route that tests skill, nerve, and route-finding in equal measure.