Standing beneath the towering slab of Mount Indefatigable, the route known simply as Joy commands attention—not for flashy moves, but for the steady, satisfying progress it offers over nearly 2000 feet of right-facing dihedral climbing. As you step onto the approach trail, expect a 45-minute trek through rugged Kananaskis terrain, threading through pockets of forest where the scent of pine sharpens your focus. The trail eases you into the mountain’s presence, a patient giant holding its secrets in smooth stone and scattered ledges.

The climb itself stretches between 3 to 6 hours depending on your pace and chosen line, offering a test in both endurance and route-finding. The rock is solid with excellent grip; friction here feels confident beneath your hands and feet, even when the exposure begins to heighten your awareness. Joy’s character reveals itself in its variety—effort can lull near 5.4 when the slab opens wide, or tighten to a manageable 5.8 if you commit to the dihedral’s cracks and corners.

Every pitch ends at a comfortable belay, often perched on ledges that collect small stones—be cautious early in the season when loose debris is more common. Lightweight protection works well here: a double set of cams spanning tiny sizes to red Camalots (#1, 2-inch range) covers most needs, backed by a single yellow Camalot (#2, 2.5 inches), nuts, and finger-sized cams for the delicate placements. Fixed gear is almost absent, so solid rack management is key.

Navigating is straightforward. The route’s line is so definite that a topo becomes more of a guide than necessity. If a section feels too challenging, moving horizontally to the right quickly opens easier ground. This option lets you dial the difficulty to your comfort level while staying on classic terrain. Most pitches can be reached with a 60m rope, but 70m ropes help avoid simul-climbing tricky bits—allowing focus on steady moves in clean rock.

Sunlight bathes the face from late morning into afternoon, highlighting the texture and subtle angles of the slab and dihedral. The climb’s length and sustained exposure reward steady pacing. By the time you reach the summit, the panorama of Kananaskis sprawls wide, with alpine ridges cutting the horizon sharp against the sky.

The descent takes between 1.5 to 3 hours, demanding careful attention on broken scree slopes and faint trails. Prepare for a car-to-car commitment that comfortably fills a full day between 5 and 9 hours depending on your approach, climb, and descent speed. Hydration and sturdy footwear make a significant difference here, given the length and varied terrain.

Joy isn’t just a physical journey but a measured adventure that puts rhythm and steady technique front and center. For climbers who appreciate a route that rewards observation and patience, it’s a classic that stands firm amid Alberta’s wild landscapes. This is a climb where nature’s steady challenge meets your calm persistence.