HomeClimbingJojoba Crack

Jojoba Crack: A Classic Trad Challenge in Joshua Tree

Twentynine Palms, California United States
finger crack
offwidth
desert
single pitch
trad
Joshua Tree
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Jojoba Crack
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Jojoba Crack offers a compact trad climb with a finger-intensive crux that opens into an offwidth finish. It’s an ideal route for climbers looking to hone crack skills in the rugged desert terrain of Joshua Tree National Park."

Jojoba Crack: A Classic Trad Challenge in Joshua Tree

Jojoba Crack carves a distinct line up the Southwest Face of Northeast Rock, offering a compact yet memorable trad climb that invites both fingerlocks and offwidth techniques within a short 50-foot pitch. Situated within Joshua Tree National Park’s rugged landscape, this route demands attention to technical detail and careful gear management. From the base, the rock’s textured surface immediately engages your fingers, drawing you into a dynamic sequence that pushes the limits of hand and finger jams. As you ascend, the crack gradually widens, requiring a shift in strategy to accommodate larger protection and a #4 Camalot to secure the final moves, making it a perfect introduction to offwidth climbing without the commitment of a longer route.

The approach is straightforward, beginning at the Live Oak Picnic Area, a well-marked and accessible trailhead that leads you through the stark desert terrain characteristic of Joshua Tree’s high desert environment. The path is marked by sandy soil dotted with resilient yuccas and desert scrub, all framed by a vast, open sky that both invites reflection and sharpens your focus for the climb ahead. The rock itself demands respect; its coarse texture provides excellent friction while posing challenges in crack sizing and gear placement. The grade, a solid 5.9, is approachable for intermediate climbers eager to refine crack climbing skills, yet the technical crux keeps the ascent engaging.

Jojoba Crack strikes a balance between an exciting physical puzzle and a short but rewarding outing. The route’s compact nature makes it an excellent choice for those seeking a focused session on crack technique without the need for an extended multi-pitch commitment. It’s also ideally suited for morning or late afternoon climbs, as the Southwest Face catches warm sunlight but avoids the harsh midday heat common in this desert park. Bringing a standard rack with an emphasis on a bigger cam is crucial; protection options tighten at the finish and challenge your placement finesse.

This climb attracts a small but passionate community grateful for the route’s straightforward approach and classic Joshua Tree rock quality. The 5.9 rating feels true to the challenge—neither soft nor artificially tough—but climbers should be prepared for a physical finger lock crux that demands precise hand work before transitioning to a more spacious offwidth section. The surrounding landscape is quintessential Joshua Tree: arid, open, and echoing with the occasional call of desert birds and the whisper of wind weaving through the rocky outcrops. The descent is uncomplicated and straightforward, typically involving a short walk back to the trailhead, making this route an accessible day trip within the park.

For those pursuing a solid crack climb with a taste of offwidth and traditional protection management, Jojoba Crack offers a compact, rewarding experience. Its desert setting challenges both mind and muscle, while the practical logistics of approach, protection, and descent make it accessible and appealing to climbers with a moderate level of trad experience.

Climber Safety

Watch for occasional loose rock debris on the approach and be cautious placing gear in the offwidth finish, where protection can be tricky. The desert sun can intensify dehydration risk; plan your water accordingly.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Start your climb early to avoid the desert heat and take advantage of morning shade.

Use sticky-soled climbing shoes with good edging capabilities to tackle the textured rock effectively.

Stay hydrated and carry extra water, especially on warm days—shade is sparse on the approach.

Double-check cam placements in the wider offwidth section for solid protection on the final moves.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating is solid and reliable, reflecting a route that tests finger strength and crack technique without overstating difficulty. The finger and hand jam crux demands precise technique before easing into a wider offwidth finish secured by larger cams. Climbers experienced on local Joshua Tree cracks will find the grade well calibrated—not too soft, with enough technical punch to keep you honest.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack with a focus on a #4 Camalot for the short offwidth finish. Smaller pieces will protect the lower fingers-to-hands crack comfortably.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Jojoba Crack and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

finger crack
offwidth
desert
single pitch
trad
Joshua Tree