HomeClimbingJohnny in Jeans

Johnny in Jeans: A Technical Slice of L-Slab Adventure

Lake Elsinore, California United States
trad
slab
crack
friction
single pitch
4 bolts
5.10a
Inland Empire
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Johnny in Jeans
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Johnny in Jeans challenges climbers with a technical 60-foot 5.10a trad climb on the left edge of L-Slab. Its blend of subtle crack placements and friction holds makes it a must for those ready to test precision on Southern California granite."

Johnny in Jeans: A Technical Slice of L-Slab Adventure

Johnny in Jeans commands attention on the left edge of L-Slab, a climb that threads its way up a wavering watercourse etched into smooth granite. This single-pitch trad route tests patience and precision, as the rock steepens and the holds retreat—offering a relentless but rewarding challenge for those ready to push their 5.10a skills. The approach brings you face-to-face with the raw geology of the Inland Empire’s Big Rock Area, where granite slabs stretch wide under an open sky. Here, climbers feel the pull of friction on tiny edges, balancing between careful placements and confident smearing.

From the ground, Johnny in Jeans begins with a carefully considered move above a crack and arch that, if protected with cams, buffers the initially unprotected reach to the first bolt. This transition feels smooth but demands respect—the subtlety of the rock's texture requires steady feet and precise hand placement. After clipping the bolts, the route continues upward over small edges and shallow depressions—natural detail that offers brief rest stops amid otherwise continuous upward motion. The climb reveals itself as a quiet test of technique rather than brute strength.

Set in California’s Inland Empire, Johnny in Jeans occupies a niche in the L-Slab wall that’s both exposed enough to feel wild and manageable enough to reward disciplined climbing. The route features four bolts along its length, ending at a two-ring Fixe anchor that it shares with the adjacent Regular Route Direct, plus an additional bolt with hanger for added security. These fixed pieces create a safety net, yet much of the climb demands solid trad placements and a keen eye for subtle features.

Preparation is key. The granite here invites clean smearing, but slick patches can surprise in damp or cooler conditions. Footwear with sticky soles and a light rack focusing on mid-sized cams will carry you through the cruxes without fuss. Timing your climb for mid-morning or late afternoon maximizes shade and grip as the sun moves across the slab, warming the rock to optimal friction.

The approach down the well-trodden trail from Lakeview Slab takes about 20 minutes through open terrain scattered with scrub and rock outcrops, offering clear navigation and a good warm-up. The descent requires careful attention as you rappel from the shared anchor; the granite face offers little in the way of natural steps, making the rappel hook-up critical for a smooth retreat.

Johnny in Jeans draws climbers who appreciate routes that blend the appeal of trad gear placements with the straightforward boldness of sport bolts. Its awkwardly beautiful crack and friction climbing makes the route a standout in L-Slab’s Big Rock Area, inviting climbers to experience the steady satisfaction of delicate face climbing amid one of Southern California’s best granite settings.

Climber Safety

The first moves before the initial bolt are unprotected unless you place cams carefully in the crack and arch. This section requires confident movement on delicate edges. The rappel anchor is shared and exposed, demanding attention to secure your setup before descent.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Place cams early in the crack to protect the tricky start.

Wear sticky rubber shoes for optimal friction on slab and edges.

Aim for mid-morning or late afternoon climbing to avoid overheating the slab.

Double-check gear on the shared anchor before rappelling.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10a, Johnny in Jeans feels true to grade with a moderately stiff crux just past the initial bolt. The start might feel a little soft if well protected with cams, but the slab transitions demand steady footwork and control, nudging the overall effort to truly reflect a solid 10a climb. Compared to nearby routes, it leans more technical than brute force, favoring finesse over power.

Gear Requirements

Four bolts secure the main section, complemented by a two-ring Fixe anchor shared with Regular Route Direct, plus an extra bolt with hanger. Early protection can be supplemented by cams placed in the crack and arch near the start, helping safeguard the initially unprotected approach to the first bolt.

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Tags

trad
slab
crack
friction
single pitch
4 bolts
5.10a
Inland Empire