HomeClimbingJohn 13:34

John 13:34 Crack at Rise Again Rock

Shaver Lake,California ,United States
wide crack
short pitch
clean granite
easy access
family friendly
top-ropeable
Grade: 5.8
Length: 25 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
John 13:34
Aspect
South Facing

John 13:34

5.8, Trad, TR

Shaver Lake

California ,United States

Overview

"John 13:34 is a short, crisp crack climb offering secure jams on clean Southern Sierra granite. Its proximity to Shaver Lake makes it a perfect quick stop or an introduction to trad climbing for newcomers and families."

John 13:34 Crack at Rise Again Rock

At Rise Again Rock, carved within the rugged expanse of the Southern Sierra, the John 13:34 crack stands as a brief yet captivating trad climb that invites both newcomers and seasoned hands to engage with its clean granite face. This route reveals itself along a left-leaning crack that initially appears deceptively wide, but close inspection shows a promising flake tucked just inside, offering secure jams from fingers stretching to wide hands. The rock beneath your feet is crisp and white—exposed only recently after the 2011 draining of Shaver Lake—providing solid friction as you make your way upward. The lower half of the climb shines with this stark granite, its texture cold and confident beneath your shoes, while the upper section softens beneath a patch of lichen, a natural signpost marking the route’s subtle transition.

Moving up, the key challenge is the footwork: nudging the left foot onto smears and tiny edges demands quiet concentration, while the right side offers more welcoming jams to settle into. The left hand requires a brief but smooth swim move to reach the next hold, an engaging moment that makes the climb feel alive — a rhythm between body and rock. Though this route stretches just 25 feet over a single pitch, its character leaves an impression. It grades a solid 5.8, with a crux that feels authentic yet approachable, a great testing ground for those fine-tuning foot skills or exploring crack climbs for the first time.

The proximity of the climb to the road turns it into an excellent quick session for passing adventurers or families seeking a manageable outdoor introduction. Its approachable nature is underscored by top-rope potential on the adjacent face to the left, making it a versatile spot for laps or downclimbing drills. Protection is straightforward: cams from BD 0.75 to BD 3 cover the placements well, with a bomber anchor formed by larger cams near the top, ensuring peace of mind as you ascend. A sling can be wrapped around the flake two-thirds up, reinforcing safety while preserving the flake’s delicate edges.

This slender crack may leave you wishing for more length, but it compensates in quality and accessibility. The sharp contrast between its clean, gray granite and the wild Southern Sierra setting creates a climbing experience grounded in nature’s raw texture yet shaped by thoughtful protection and easy access. Whether you’re squeezing in a quick climb before heading deeper into the mountains or introducing someone to the dance of hands and feet on granite, John 13:34 offers an authentic slice of Sierra climbing — practical, engaging, and memorable.

Climber Safety

Watch placement quality on the flake; avoid wedging cams between fragile rock and the flake edge. The short climb’s easy access encourages caution with footwear and hygiene to preserve friction and cleanliness.

Route Specifications

Route Details

5.8
TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length25 feet

Local Tips

Keep your feet clean for maximum friction on the sharp granite.

Avoid placing cams between the rock and fragile flake sections to prevent damage.

Consider top-roping the face climb to the left for additional variety.

Ideal for short sessions when passing through Shaver Lake or for a beginner-friendly outing.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating feels true to form with a crux centering on delicate left-foot smears and a distinct hand move that pushes technique without overwhelming. This climb suits those looking to sharpen crack climbing skills, similar in difficulty to other Southern Sierra moderate trad routes but more compressed in length.

Gear Requirements

Bring a rack of cams ranging from BD 0.75 to BD 3 for secure placements. The top-rope anchor requires larger cams from BD #2 to #4. Use slings carefully around the flake to preserve its integrity.

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Tags

wide crack
short pitch
clean granite
easy access
family friendly
top-ropeable