"Joe’s V Slot combines the steady hand jams of Joe’s 5.8 with the steep dihedral of The V Slot into a demanding 35-foot trad climb. Approachable yet precise, it challenges climbers with a sharp crux near the top and requires small to medium cams plus a bolt for protection."
Joe's V Slot offers a focused burst of trad climbing that brings together two classic lines into a seamless, engaging ascent. Located within the rugged folds of Mission Gorge, this 35-foot route combines the measured hand jams of Joe's 5.8 with the striking dihedral features of The V Slot. From the moment your fingers find that first crack, you're drawn into a rhythm between precise crack climbing and subtle body positioning.
The climb begins with a leftward traverse up a clean hand crack—this section calls upon steady balance and controlled movement, rewarding those comfortable with placing small to medium cams. As you gain the base of the dihedral, the route shifts character: you reach a bolt before committing to the steep, right-angling dihedral that defines The V Slot portion. The rock here is solid, with textured edges and sharp corners that invite careful footwork.
The final moves demand your full attention, with a crux that tests strength and technique. It’s here that the route’s 5.9 rating earns its respect; while the grade sits just beyond moderate, the difficulty feels precise rather than overwhelming. Climbers familiar with San Diego’s nearby trad climbs will find the challenge approachable but meaningful.
The surrounding canyon atmosphere is stark yet invigorating. The backdrop of South San Diego’s dry chaparral adds a muted gold glow in the afternoon sun, while a cool breeze filters through the narrow canyon walls. This exposure gives a subtle reminder of the area’s rugged beauty without demanding extreme endurance or exposure tolerance.
Practical considerations are straightforward. The route is single pitch and relatively short, making it an ideal afternoon climb or a quick mission for those looking to sharpen crack climbing skills. Protection relies on small to medium cams paired with a single bolt, so bring a varied rack to ensure confident placements. The approach is direct and manageable, making Joe’s V Slot accessible without a long trek or bushwhack.
Local climbers appreciate this climb as a solid option when seeking to combine technical gear placements with a touch of face climbing, all within a compact setting. Whether you’re honing trad moves or mixing up your usual routes, this climb delivers clean rock and straightforward beta that invites repeat ascents.
Remember to time your climb to avoid the midday heat, as the southern California sun can intensify quickly in exposed sections. Early morning or late afternoon provides ideal lighting and cooler rock temperatures, enhancing both comfort and friction underfoot.
With solid protection, clear rock features, and manageable length, Joe’s V Slot stands as a gateway to Mission Gorge’s diverse climbing scene—compact, technical, and deeply satisfying for those looking to connect with the textures and challenges of trad climbing in a scenic southern California canyon.
Watch for loose rock near the bolt section and ensure your cam placements are solid—small to medium cams can feel marginal if not properly seated. The descent is straightforward, but attention on footing is crucial given some loose scree along the approach trail.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat and glare on the south-facing rock.
Check your cam placements carefully; some sections require precise sizing for secure holds.
Wear sturdy climbing shoes with good toe edging to handle the subtle face features.
Approach via the established Mission Gorge trailhead—trail is well-marked and takes about 15 minutes.
Bring a rack focused on small to medium cams along with a standard set of nuts. The route features one bolt for added security near the dihedral transition. Good rack selection will ensure solid protection placements throughout the crack sections and the dihedral.
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