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JMPT at Staircase Towers in Brown's Canyon National Monument

Buena Vista, Colorado United States
chimney
hand crack
off-width
multi-pitch
trad
Colorado
Brown's Canyon
Length: 130 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
JMPT
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"JMPT challenges climbers to press through a tight chimney and conquer a tricky crack system across two pitches. Set within the wild beauty of Brown's Canyon National Monument, this 5.8 trad climb blends physical chimney moves with technical crack jams, rewarding effort with sweeping mountain views."

JMPT at Staircase Towers in Brown's Canyon National Monument

At the heart of Colorado’s rugged Brown's Canyon National Monument, the JMPT route offers an inviting yet challenging two-pitch trad climb that rewards those ready to embrace a full-body engagement with the rock. The Staircase Towers stand tall and raw, their granite faces reflecting the shifting sunlight of the valley below. As you step onto the base, the air hums with the energy of open wilderness, pine-scented breezes brushing against your skin while the Arkansas River’s distant roar dares you to move upwards.

The first pitch immediately calls for a strong sense of balance and technique. You’ll slip into a snug chimney that demands full-body pressure—a satisfying squeeze that forces you to press and stem your way upward. This opening stretch feels like a conversation with the rock itself; the chimney tightens then opens into a hand crack, a natural invitation to reach, lock, and pull yourself onto a massive ledge that feels both earned and commanding. The 70-foot climb holds a steady 5.8 rating, accessible but honest, highlighting the route’s playful physicality.

Pitch two pivots to a steeper, more deceptive left-leaning hand crack. It steadily widens until it becomes an off-width just before the top, challenging climbers to adjust their strategy and body positioning as the crack tests both reach and finesse. This section, about 60 feet long, carries the same 5.8 rating but with enough nuance to keep the mind alert and the muscles engaged. The rock here feels solid and reliable, providing ample placements, but it calls for a standard rack topped by a #5 cam to navigate safely.

The climb’s location near Buena Vista enhances the experience—after your ascent, the small mountain town invites recovery, resupply, or a quiet moment to reflect on the day’s effort with an impressive backdrop of the Collegiate Peaks nearby. Approaching the climb is straightforward and well marked, but the terrain around Staircase Towers is rugged and sparsely traveled, making preparation key.

Experienced climbers will appreciate the balance of physical chimney work and technical crack climbing throughout JMPT. For the adventurous newcomer, the route provides a welcoming challenge that’s neither intimidating nor trivial. The steady exposure offers sweeping views to the southwest, rewarding the ascent with a grand perspective on Colorado’s high country.

Hydration and timing are essential: start early to avoid the afternoon sun and plan your gear carefully. This climb benefits from steady weather, and the sandstone’s firmness means wet conditions can quickly turn risky. Footwear with solid edging and a sticky rubber sole improve security on the chimney presses and crack jams alike. Make sure to carry enough protection to cover the strategy from hand jams to off-width resistance.

In sum, JMPT in Brown's Canyon frames a classic Colorado trad climb—straightforward but demanding, physical yet graceful. It invites inward focus as much as outward appreciation, urging the climber to engage deeply with every movement and every hold on the rock’s surface. When the summit is reached and the stance gained, the wide-open air and rugged horizon serve as a fitting reward, a moment of clarity forged in effort and elevation.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose rock within the chimney and approach cautiously; the off-width near the top requires confident placement of larger cams. Avoid climbing after rain and be mindful of sun exposure during midday to prevent dehydration.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length130 feet

Local Tips

Start your climb early to avoid heat on the exposed rock faces in the afternoon.

Wear sticky-soled climbing shoes to improve grip during chimney and crack sections.

Check weather forecasts carefully; wet sandstone increases slip risk.

Bring enough water and snacks for a full day to fuel both approach and climb.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating on JMPT feels true to its style—solid but not overly generous. The chimney pitch is more physical than cruxy, requiring endurance and body tension, while the second pitch presents a subtle technical challenge as the crack widens to off-width, demanding versatility. Compared to nearby routes, it offers a balanced introduction with sustained moves rather than short bursts of difficulty.

Gear Requirements

Standard trad rack recommended up to a #5 cam for the off-width section near the top. Bring gear suited for hand cracks and chimney protection. No fixed bolts are present, so solid gear placement skills are essential.

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Tags

chimney
hand crack
off-width
multi-pitch
trad
Colorado
Brown's Canyon