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Jenga for Dummies

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
crack climbing
arete
single pitch
technical
trad gear
balancy moves
Length: 115 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Jenga for Dummies
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Jenga for Dummies offers a compelling single-pitch trad climb at Squamish’s Gonzales Creek Wall. Starting from a tight roof and transitioning into a crack-filled arete, this 115-foot route challenges balance and technique while rewarding with consistent, engaging moves."

Jenga for Dummies

Jenga for Dummies commands attention right from the stairway base, inviting climbers into a technical opener that balances precise movement with compelling cracks and edges. The route begins with a single bolt clipping a little over a foot off the deck, serving as both welcome and warning—this climb demands control and a steady hand. From there, you navigate through a compact roof leading into a right-facing corner that sets the tone for the sequence: measured effort with focused technique.

The climb’s character transforms as you shift left onto a blocky, jammed section that feels like balancing a precarious construction—each move deliberate, controlled, avoiding unnecessary force. This leads you to a ledge, where the grade takes a slight breath before pushing you into the arete, which brings a few balancy crux moves testing your footwork and confidence.

From that point, the climbing settles into a steady rhythm along a clean crack system peppered with a series of engaging cruxes that demand both finger strength and subtle finesse. Though the pitch measures 115 feet, it flows as a continuous challenge, best experienced in one long sequence rather than broken segments. Protection is straightforward yet requires thoughtful placements, with a mix of bolts and small cams providing security without overcrowding the rock.

The route lies on Gonzales Creek Wall, tucked within the lush Squamish area of British Columbia—a landscape where the towering evergreens press close, and the nearby creek’s murmur offers a background score to your ascent. The environment feels alive, with shaded pockets and the occasional sunbeam casting light on wet rock patches, so timing your climb for drier conditions is wise. Approach involves a short hike from the main trail, requiring careful navigation as the terrain here is rugged but well trodden.

For those tackling Jenga for Dummies, the route’s sustained technicality offers a rewarding taste of Squamish’s trad climbing ethos—solid rock, varied moves, and the chance to refine crack technique on a route that respects careful gear placement and movement economy. Perfectly suited for intermediate to advanced climbers looking to sharpen their trad skills within a scenic, quiet corner of one of Canada’s iconic climbing hubs.

Climber Safety

Watch for slick spots in shaded areas, especially early in the morning or after rain. The ledge below the arete is narrow—ensure secure placements before committing to balancy moves. Gear placements in the jammed blocks require careful evaluation for stability.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length115 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid wet rock patches left in shaded sections.

Footwear with sticky rubber and excellent edging will help on the arete’s balancy moves.

Inspect placements carefully, especially in jammed block sections where pro can be tricky.

Carry a light rack; the route favors quality over quantity in gear.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c
Quality
Consensus:At 5.10c, Jenga for Dummies sits at a challenging threshold where technique outweighs raw power. The grade may feel stiff for climbers uncomfortable with delicate footwork on edges and cracks, especially in the sequence through the roof and onto the arete. Those familiar with moderate Squamish trad routes will find this a solid step up, with cruxes that demand precise body positioning and smart gear.

Gear Requirements

Bring a traditional rack including several cams from #0 Metolius to #3 BD, along with a couple of #1 Metolius and #0.75 BD cams. Three bolts are available but most protection depends on solid gear placements in the cracks and corners.

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Tags

crack climbing
arete
single pitch
technical
trad gear
balancy moves