"Jack the Ripper delivers a classic 5.8 trad climb just beyond Barker Dam, starting in cool shade before venturing through a technical chimney and a delicate traverse. Ideal for trad climbers looking to sharpen crack skills in Joshua Tree’s iconic granite."
Jack the Ripper offers a straightforward and engaging trad climb tucked into the rugged heart of Joshua Tree's Barker Dam Area. From the moment you step into the shaded start, the route invites you into a chimney section that tests both technique and composure. The granite here feels alive beneath your fingertips, its textured surface demanding careful placements and steady footwork. As you rise, the climb opens into a traverse that requires thoughtful rope management—setting your protection high along this stretch keeps things smooth and prevents frustrating snags. The rock’s subtle personality reveals itself in slivers and cracks suited for small to medium cams and nuts, making gear choices key for a confident ascent. At roughly 70 feet, this single-pitch climb hits a sweet spot, packing a concentrated dose of Joshua Tree’s classic style without overstaying its welcome. The route’s accessible 5.8 rating is approachable yet offers enough challenge to hold the interest of newcomers eager to refine their crack and chimney skills, while seasoned climbers will appreciate its clean granite and efficient beta. After summiting, the descent is a simple walk-off to the right, allowing an easy transition back to the desert floor. This climb’s entrance in Randy Vogel’s guidebook stands as a gateway to Joshua Tree’s array of traditional climbs that balance nature’s raw edge with practical, safe climbing. For those preparing to take this on, be ready with smaller cams and a good set of nuts to navigate the protection placements smoothly. Timing your climb for the cooler early hours ensures the shaded start stays comfortable as the desert sun asserts itself. Jack the Ripper isn’t just a route — it’s a hands-on lesson in the balance of rock, rope, and strategy that defines Joshua Tree’s climbing spirit.
Set your protection high on the traverse to minimize rope drag and reduce snag risks. The chimney requires careful foot and hand placements on somewhat slabby granite — approach with control. The descent is a straightforward walk-off, but stay vigilant of slick rock and loose debris in the area.
Start early to take advantage of the shaded chimney section before the sun heats up the rock.
Extend your quickdraws during the traverse to avoid rope drag and snagging on gear.
Bring a set of small to medium cams plus nuts for secure placements on varied crack sizes.
Walk off to the right after the climb to avoid scrambling or rappelling hazards.
Requires small to medium cams and assorted nuts. Anchor building is straightforward with gear anchors. Pro set high on the traverse to prevent rope drag. Extend quickdraws toward traverse's end.
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