Rising sharply from the rugged landscape of Yosemite’s Lower Merced River Canyon, Jack Pinnacle presents a focused trad climbing experience that challenges both skill and resolve. This two-pitch 5.9 route starts in a narrow notch between Jack and Pat Pinnacles, where granite walls pinch in tightly, inviting climbers into a rhythmic dance of chimneying and crack climbing. The first pitch demands maneuvering through a chimney and scrambling to a smaller ledge on the spire’s left side, offering solid placements primarily in the chimney’s right crack and behind some loose flakes. Here, the granite asserts its character: gritty and textured with patches of lichen that add a gritty realism to each move.

Continuing upward, the second pitch intensifies with an off-width squeeze that forces you outward, testing technique and patience. A piton guards this section, while finger to hand-sized cams anchor the route as you navigate the increasingly awkward chimney. The crux, rated 5.9, is a short but demanding stretch where the rock’s rough surface mixes with loose flakes and patches of lichen, reminding climbers that Yosemite trad is as much about endurance and care as it is about raw power. Beyond the crux, a flat ledge between Jack Pinnacle and the main cliff provides a brief respite before the final 20-foot chimney, which widens here into a moderate 5.4 R/X mantle onto the summit.

The top of Jack Pinnacle rewards climbers with panoramic views of the river canyon below and the towering walls surrounding Yosemite Valley. A rappel using bolts deposited on the summit delivers a swift return to the starting notch, where descending follows established Pat Pinnacle routes. This secluded spire escapes the crowds, offering a pure trad experience marked by textured granite and technical chimney climbing.

Preparation is key: bring a rack extending to 4 inches for the final pitches, but don’t overlook larger cams to protect the approach sections effectively. Timing your climb to avoid the midday sun, and preparing for loose flakes and patchy lichen on the rock, will improve your ascent significantly. Water and sturdy shoes are essentials, while a calm, steady mindset will carry you through the challenging chimney and the delicate off-width sections.

Jack Pinnacle Left is an authentic slice of Yosemite climbing—accessible yet testing, with a straightforward approach that hides physical and technical challenges. Whether you’re honing trad skills or seeking a rewarding granite ascent with fewer footsteps, this route anchors a memorable day on one of California’s iconic granite spires.