"Dedicated to a pivotal historic day, 'It's Time For Change' blends smooth moves with striking exposure in Boulder Canyon. This single-pitch 5.8 route offers a rich experience for climbers comfortable with both trad and sport lines."
Set against the rugged backdrop of Boulder Canyon, 'It's Time For Change' offers climbers a spirited 90-foot journey that balances technical discipline with breath-catching exposure. This route honors a historic moment - its first ascent coincided with Barack Obama's inauguration, adding a layer of quiet reverence to the climb’s character. The route begins by threading carefully through three well-placed bolts on Night Moves, easing you into the rhythm of the wall. Step onto a solid ledge, a moment to steady breathing as the canyon air stirs around you.
From here, the climb shifts into a short but demanding right-facing corner that demands precise footwork and confident stemming. The real test emerges as you engage a steep dihedral, pushing upward until you're coaxed out left onto a sharp, airy arete that defines the route’s crux. This element is not just a physical challenge but a dance with gravity and space—keep close to the arete to maintain the line and stay connected to the protection.
The final stretch holds a commanding view of the surrounding canyon, framed by pine-slicked rock faces and the high Colorado sky. Anchor yourself at the two-bolt station equipped with lowering hooks and take a moment to soak in the expanse below. This climb delivers moderate difficulty in a lively environment, appealing to trad and sport climbers ready to mix gear techniques and movement.
With eight bolts and a handful of optional placements, the protection provides strong security, though seasoned leaders may confidently trust the bolts alone. The rock’s texture offers reliable holds, but mindful foot placement remains essential, especially on the arete where the route demands finesse over power. The immediate approach is straightforward, and the canyon’s natural airflow keeps temperatures balanced, making spring and fall optimal seasons for the ascent.
Planning for this climb, pack gear that covers both bolt clipping and a few well-chosen cams—yellow Aliens and medium-sized Camalots complement the fixed gear perfectly. Footwear with sticky rubber and a snug fit will increase precision on the technical sections. Hydrate well and watch for sudden weather shifts common in the mountains.
Descent follows a clean rappel from the anchor, with ample room to safely lower off and return to the trailhead via a well-marked path. The climb’s energy and exposure make it a sought-after route for those building confidence on the wall or looking for an invigorating moderate challenge within the welcoming yet wild setting of Boulder’s climbing areas.
Carefully navigate the airy arete by climbing close to the feature—venturing too far left risks missing vital bolts and anchor protection. The descent rappel requires attention to anchor setup and rope management to avoid rope drag on the exposed face.
Approach via the established trail to The Bihedral (Upper Tier) with clear signage and minimal scrub.
Best climbed in spring or fall to avoid summer heat and sudden afternoon thunderstorms.
Wear sticky-soled climbing shoes for precise footwork on the airy arete section.
Plan for a double rope rappel from the two-bolt anchor with lowering hooks for a safe descent.
Equipped with eight bolts and three optional gear placements (yellow Alien, green #0.75, yellow #2 Camalots), the route gives protection versatility. Strong leaders often rely primarily on the bolts, though the gear offers additional security that suits trad climbers.
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