"A straightforward single-pitch trad climb featuring a pair of dihedrals that will test your crack climbing skills. Perfect for hands-on practice with thin to hand-sized protection in the scenic Hall of Horrors area of Joshua Tree."
The climb known simply as "It" on the East Wall Inner sector of Joshua Tree’s Sheep Pass Area offers a focused taste of traditional climbing that balances hand jams with delicate footwork along a pair of dihedrals. This single-pitch, 100-foot route invites climbers into an engaging crack system carved into the sunbaked granite, where every move requires purposeful placement and mindful rhythm. The opening dihedral requires confident use of thin to hand-sized jams, demanding steady hands and precise body positioning, while the feet seek out tenuous but reliable edges that test your balance and control. As you rest at a small ledge about halfway, the terrain shifts to a gentler left-facing dihedral where the crack widens, encouraging slightly more relaxed movement but still requiring careful protection and focus.
Joshua Tree’s desert air filters through sparse vegetation at the base, warming the granite and heightening tactile awareness. The rock itself wears a rough surface that both challenges and rewards those who approach with patience and respect. This climb is a measured introduction to the region’s trad offerings: technical yet accessible, with just enough complexity to keep even seasoned climbers engaged.
Gear-wise, the route favors thin to hands-sized pro, so a rack stocked around small cams is essential. Protection placements can be subtle, so it’s worth honing your gear intuition on this climb before moving to longer or harder lines nearby. The approach to East Wall Inner is straightforward—just a short pull off the main trail through desert scrub—and you’ll find the base clearly visible against the backdrop of Joshua Tree’s rugged mesas and expansive sky.
This climb shines during the cooler months or early morning hours when the sun warms the rock without baking it, making your grips more sure and the risk of overheating minimal. Timing your ascent to avoid the desert heat ensures that the holds and jams maintain their grippy texture, and your hydration strategy should reflect the arid climate: bring water, apply sunscreen, and take breaks in the sparse shade.
The descent is a quick walk off to the nearest trail, allowing you to linger just long enough to appreciate the quiet beauty of the Hall of Horrors zone before returning to the busier park landmarks. Whether you’re preparing for longer trad routes or looking to sharpen your crack skills, "It" is a compact, runnable climb that blends Joshua Tree’s signature granite features with the kind of hands-on engagement all traditional climbers seek.
Protection can be sparse in some sections, so avoid over-reaching for gear while on thin jams. The granite can be unforgiving if a slip occurs; careful gear selection and controlled movement are key. Be mindful of loose rock near the ledge and route entry.
Start early to avoid the midday desert heat and keep the rock grippy.
Use light, sticky-soled shoes for precise foot placements on the delicate edges.
Hydrate thoroughly before the climb; there's limited shade on the approach and at the base.
Check conditions ahead – the route can feel slick if dust or moisture collects in the cracks.
Bring a set of small to medium cams focused on thin to hand-size placements. The protection spots require careful selection, so sharpening your placement skills pays off here.
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