"Iris stands out as a distinctive single-pitch trad climb at Slide Wall, blending solid jugs and a discontinuous crack with surprising gear options. An accessible yet engaging route, it's a must-do for climbers exploring the Emeralds in Lake Tahoe."
Iris offers a refreshing trad climb that stands out in the Slide Wall area with its mix of solid jugs and an intermittent crack system. Clocking in at about 60 feet, this single-pitch route demands attention not through sheer height, but through its distinctive features and surprisingly reliable protection. The climb threads through a series of welcoming handholds and interesting dikes, challenging climbers to navigate a line that feels both approachable and unique for this section of the Sierra Nevada. Amid the rugged backdrop of the Emeralds, Iris presents an accessible but engaging trad experience that rewards steady movement and thoughtful gear placement.
The rock quality here is consistently dependable, with holds that feel secure under strain. What's especially notable is the availability of protection: a standard rack up to 2 inches will cover most placements, with some unusual horizontal slots providing natural resting points as well as gear options uncommon at Slide Wall. This blend of rock features keeps the ascent fresh, inviting climbers to combine jugs and cracks in a way that feels deliberate rather than rote.
Access to Iris is straightforward once you reach The Benches section of the Emeralds. The approach is moderate, following well-trodden trails that wind through classic Tahoe granite scenery. The climb shares an anchor with Integral, making it easy to set up a top rope if you prefer to warm up or train before sending. The setting offers a quiet escape from busier Lake Tahoe crags without sacrificing the high-quality rock that draws visitors to the area.
For those preparing to climb Iris, expect moderate exposure and clear daylight through much of the late morning and early afternoon, thanks to the wall’s orientation. The route is best tackled in spring through fall, avoiding winter’s icy grip when conditions on the rock degrade. Footwear with sticky rubber and a precise approach shoe will help on the largely clean granite, while basic trad rack essentials will keep your ascent safe and confident.
Whether you’re scouting for a solid moderate pitch to sharpen your trad skills or exploring new sections of the Lake Tahoe climbing landscape, Iris is a rewarding pick. It bridges the gap between easy sport climbs and more demanding traditional lines, with enough character in its sequences to keep eyes sharp and hands eager. Pack your gear, set your sights on Slide Wall, and step into a climb that quietly proves that sometimes, less is more for an inspiring day on the granite.
While holds and protection are generally solid, watch for occasional loose flakes near the horizontal placements. The anchor is shared and solid, but double-check your rigging if top-roping after Integral. Approaching in wet or icy conditions can make access slippery and hazardous, so plan your trip during dry months.
Pair Iris with Integral to set up a convenient top rope from the shared anchor.
Begin your climb mid-morning to enjoy full sunlight on the wall.
Wear shoes with good rubber for the solid granite jugs and crack sequences.
Bring a rack focused on cams up to 2 inches for the best protection options.
A single rack up to 2 inches covers the protection needs, with a Mussy hook and a reliable shared anchor with Integral for top-roping. Unique horizontal placements supplement typical crack gear, so bring a versatile rack focused on cams and small nuts.
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